grendel

well here it is, with the new sides just clamped in place, next to work out the window locations, and create the front panels. the last picture is that extra piece that was inserted.

on the last picture we see a variance in height, I actually need a the full height here, so today, after cutting to the roof line, I have added a small piece here (using the scarf to bed the extra piece in), glued clamped and drying now.

Griff, dont forget the photos when you finish something, must keep up to date for the model

good work on those screens and hatches Ricardo.

as someone who has curved 12mm ply to make norman kite shields, I can appreciate the work involved in this hatch

nice to see the updates Socrates, I am at the same point in model #2 of Broad Ambition, I have the side planks, but now face mutilating them by cutting out the windows, and adapting to the roof profiles. Always a tricky point of no return.

I just feel sorry for the boat owners who now have to live with the floor at an angle. until the water comes back, I wonder how continuous cruisers are treated in situations like this - after all without water they cannot move.

I cant find corrosion resistance figures fro DZR Brass, but there must still be some corrosion, as although the resulting brass has less zinc and more copper (thus making it a softer mix) it still must contain zinc, which means it can still corrode, now if you could get seacocks in monol, I would go for them, when I worked on my first job, we were creating pump lubrication systems, and some of the oils we were pumping were highly corrosive (or potentially highly corrosive) so we had to use monol valves for some parts of the system, but by the looks this Marelon stuff has most plastics beaten hands down, and has better corrosion resistance than most metals.

its over twice the tensile strength of Nylon, and nearly as good as Bronze

the marelon are only technically plastic, they are carbon fibre reinforced nylon- this is probably tougher than the hull it is attached to.

I build even smaller Models

I have a down on ball valves for much the same reason, the one on the balance pipe for my central heating stuck in the open position, while I was topping up the pressure, next thing I know the system is over pressure and I cant shut off the valve (luckily I found the supply pipe to the system had a gate valve- a bit stiff but shut off the supply. I then managed to bleed the excess pressure and had to go and replace the ball valve- when I inspected it, the rubber seal had managed to get itself wedged into the mouth of the ball opening, stopping it being shut. the moral of the story - test your central heating valves regularly then they shouldnt seize.

probably as it is a skin fitting, the larger body allows for a firmer seating against the hull, and spreads the load better when the valve is operated / knocked accidentally, they wouldnt want the valve to shear off the hull if accidentally knocked or while being operated.

sorted

I would guess that is where either a toll sticker, or registration number was stuck, thus stopping the wood beneath fading.

for private messages, if you are on a laptop or pc then its the envelope icon top right of the page, if you are on a mobile device, at the top right there is a set of 3 bars this opens a menu, where the options show the envelope top right again

That sounds like a good plan, after 8 years some of the oil may be the original

also there appears to be a correct way of taking the oil level, in that you need to run the engine for a short time before checking the oil level (this is obviously tricky when it is up out of the water.) see below from the williams jet tender tips and tricks page. which would explain why it appeared empty.

from the looks of the manual, you may not have lost 3 litres of oil there is only half a litre between the marks on the dipstick, so a litre would take it below where it could read a level. if it has only 1.7 hours of use, then it still needs at least another 4 hours running the engine in. (less than 6000 rpm)

or maybe even an out of balance prop?

Just wondering, but the fuel and the oil in the rib, well after the thorough shaking up and motion of the trip to the broads, is it possible that the fuel and oil were just dispersed by the rough motions, sprayed to the winds so to speak, the rib would have been seeing more motion than you would have down in the cabin.

well tonight aside from working on the model, I repaired the spare ABS module for the car. as I was getting the ABS light up on the car almost daily now, I ordered a spare (maybe the only one in the country) my volvo has a particular one only used for the one year, when it arrived I was dissapointed to find that my £100 purchase was in worse condition than the one in the car. last night I cut into the case and accessed the circuit board - the common problem with these is dry solder joints on the two pins that supply the ABS pump. so last night I found the dry joint on this module and fitted it to the car today. this now worked. So tonight it was the turn of the old unit from my car. the lid was cut at the point it has problem connections, the dry joint was found, and resoldered, just to be sure all the connections to the connectors were resoldered, and I am happy I now have a fully working spare for the car. the first couple of pictures are the problem joints, they work fine until the unit warms up, then the hole expands and breaks the circuit. once soldered the lid was sealed back in place with a hot glue gun.

tonight the second side was unclamped and cleaned up, this one had the 'thick' plank that was thinned down on the belt sander, here the finished result.

I was sort of thinking he might want a few more

yep, that was about it, I reckon the poo smell was because of the large stool they found in one of the cess pits, they had to justify the display.