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Richardsons RC45 and RC35


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Morning Andy.

Thanks for posting the very detailed description - I suppose you can be rather an authority on this actually doing the job!!

You don't have any pictures you can post do you (or maybe we should start another thread as this is hijacking Clive's a bit itsn't it!!)

Best wishes,

James.

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Morning Andy.

Thanks for posting the very detailed description - I suppose you can be rather an authority on this actually doing the job!!

You don't have any pictures you can post do you (or maybe we should start another thread as this is hijacking Clive's a bit itsn't it!!)

Best wishes,

James.

James,

Keep an eye on our blog http://freedomcruisers.blogspot.com. Progress is being posted on there once or twice a week. Many pics have been held back because, well, they're a bit dull and non-descript.

I'll see what we have and maybe do something a bit in depth.

Andy

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they're a bit dull and non-descript.

I'll see what we have and maybe do something a bit in depth.

Andy

Dull is good. Non-descript is good.

Something in depth would be even better!

Best wishes,

James.

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Martin,

if the plug had not stuck the ring would have been as it is now as it only needs to give us the shape of the flange to be sure the superstructure will fit the hull, also if the keel was on it then the working height would be too much, the reason it is as high as it is is because the wheelhouse floor is included in the moulding as are the steps to the front and rear, we will have to cut the rolley a bit as frame 12 which has the rear cockpit step hangs lower than the base of the frame.

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As for the exciting subject of flanges, the biscuit tin type is the best method for us but it is found that on offshore boats the water could drive up under the it, I cant see how if the whole thing is bonded, ours are bonded over and then when the rubbers or aluminium profile we use to attach the alcathene is bolted on then the bolt heads are also bonded over, this strengthens the boat well but I prefer hardwood rubbing strakes as I think they look better and add strength to the hull, they also wear better and dont fall off so easily.

The outward flange must have been thought of as a good idea at the time but we generally cut it off bond up and fix on the aluminium.

some offshre boats have a inward flange, these would have been bolted with a sealant inbetween and then bonded but the modern method is to just stick the top to the bottom with a bonding agent of some sort (I dont know what it is) no bolts or fiberglass involved.

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The outward flange must have been thought of as a good idea at the time but we generally cut it off bond up and fix on the aluminium..

Hi Clive.

You mean you would do this on a new externally sourced set of mouldings, or would you do this to an existing boat when reparing the rubbing strake, or only when doing a major refurb - like Barbados etc?

Best wishes,

James.

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Hi James,

On a new set of mouldings that would be the first thing we would do as it is easier to do the bonding in a empty hull but I dont think mouldings are produced like this anymore.

we dont have many with the old flanges on anymore especially on the front of back as these will have been dammaged over the years and have easy access to make a proper repair.

when we do a major refurb on a boat we want it to be low maintenance and have the intention of keeping it for a very long time so we do all the jobs in one go at the start. cheersbar

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Guest DAYTONA-BILL

Hi all, In the early 70s (when i were a lad) we helped build a Bowman corsair 44 bermudan sloop, which was an ocean going cruiser/racer. The chap that built it bought a bare shell with main bulkheads, engine, tanks and ballast already bonded and fitted. This boat was moulded in a 4 piece mould, and was moulded as one complete moulding. They did it by having the hull in two halves, with a seperate transome and the deck and cabin top moulds all bolted together, thus forming a complet boat in a single piece. The mouldings came from Tylers of Tonbridge. My own boat, a Pandora international is made up of 4 mouldings, the hull, hull interior moulding, superstructure, and inner headlining moulding. The deck overlaps the hull and is boded together, and the headliner overlaps the interior hull moulding, and the substantial teak gunwhale rubbing strake is bolted through all four of them. I know this as when i bolted a stantion back on, i needed some pretty long bolts. Regards to all..............Neil. :Sailing:Sailing:Sailing

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Guest DAYTONA-BILL

Hi Clive, have you got the interior plans finalised yet, and are all the panels and bulkheads etc cut by hand, or are they CNC machined. Also, are you able to post up the proposed layout plans yet, or can you give us any ideas of how the finished layout will look?. Regards.............Neil.

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they will be available for hire next year.

as with all our boats the more you pay the more you get (service is the same over the whole fleet)

the general arrangements (layouts) have been done, basically the front cabin will be virtually the same island bed on all models except some may have separate shower and toilet up front.

the rear end will have two cabins, each with their own shower and toilet, they will have the option of twin beds or double in each, further down the line another cabin may be arranged in the front.

I do hope to use CNC as much as practical but sometimes with the right patterns it is just quicker to cut things like bulkheads out yourself although some furnature produced by CNC is such good looking stuff with all the grains running right and so well cut that producing it by hand would cost too much which is why the 'big boys' dont bother, that does not mean that things dont have to be well thought out or finished to a decent standard and knowing when to use it and when not to will make the all the difference

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Guest DAYTONA-BILL

Hi Clive, thanks for the reply. An interesting comment you made about the fwd cabin maybe having seperate toilet and shower compartments. As a hire customer, i think that`s an excellent idea, as all too often when we`ve been on a boat, it`s quite often somebody wants to use the loo while somebdy else (women :naughty::naughty: ) takes a long time in the shower. Am i right in saying several of your Safari`s have seperate comps?. I bet they get the thumbs up from customers. Regards...........Neil.

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Hi Clive

how long do you think it will take to get the topside built?

Jonny ice sliceice sliceice slice

A lot longer than the hull !

reasons being although we have a extra boatbuilder (plus a Boatbuilder advert going in the paper on Thursday) some of the team are fixing holes under the toilets on ex French boats :naughty:

also the Superstructure is a whole lot more complicated than the hull in both terms of constructing it and sanding it down.

This is how things looked last night...

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This is how things looked at the end of play today, we are upto frame 11, we had to cut a bit of the trolley out before putting frame 12 up as it incorporates the step from the cockpit to the rear end.

you can see the start of the canopy runnes in the four frames towards the middle and the rear door aperture next to the engine hatch at the rear.

The preparations to start putting the frames up takes plenty of time to get right but they should fly up now although every one needs to be double checked otherwise the canopy may get stuck halfway which would mean major problems.

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Last few until Monday as I have to go to France on a boat hunt :naughty:

she is looking like a boat now :)

you can see the full canopy runners, wheelhouse seating, decks and the shape of the roof really well,

the frames should all be up and the skin starting to go on by the end of the week.

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Looking to buy some more ex Crown Cruisers kit Clive?

Hi Simon,

Just back, There are a possible 2 Crown cruisers but also some of the Porter + Haylett built boats, we will have to see what happens tomorrow on the phone. :)

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