ranworthbreeze Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Hello Trev, Welcome to the forum. Dependant on where you moor in Brundall have a word with Alex Frazer he services loads of boats around Brundall. Regards Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 You don't want too much grease in a stern gland or it will clog the packing and overheat, it needs the odd drip when running, the greaser is only really as a seal when sitting still (mine drip when still too but have no greasers), if there is a cutless bearing directly behind the gland it needs water flow to lube it which is why there is often a take off from the raw water pressure side piped to the back of the gland if there's no other way for water to get in. Depending on access they can be repacked in the water as long as you pre-prepare your packing, it will let water in but not a huge amount, it may just need nipping up a touch but enough to stop all drips. There are dripless glands available but need the bellows replacing every 5 years which needs the shaft pulling, dripless need 'burping' when launched or a vent pipe to above waterline or they run dry and burn out, I considered these but once I'd repacked my glands decided to ongoing maintenance of the packed gland was so cheap and easy it wasn't worth it, £10 will get enough packing for about 3 glands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 32 minutes ago, Smoggy said: You don't want too much grease in a stern gland or it will clog the packing and overheat, it needs the odd drip when running, the greaser is only really as a seal when sitting still (mine drip when still too but have no greasers), if there is a cutless bearing directly behind the gland it needs water flow to lube it which is why there is often a take off from the raw water pressure side piped to the back of the gland if there's no other way for water to get in. Depending on access they can be repacked in the water as long as you pre-prepare your packing, it will let water in but not a huge amount, it may just need nipping up a touch but enough to stop all drips. There are dripless glands available but need the bellows replacing every 5 years which needs the shaft pulling, dripless need 'burping' when launched or a vent pipe to above waterline or they run dry and burn out, I considered these but once I'd repacked my glands decided to ongoing maintenance of the packed gland was so cheap and easy it wasn't worth it, £10 will get enough packing for about 3 glands. Thank you very much for your comprehensive reply. Obviously this a more complicated problem than just adding some grease. The shaft is dripping quite a lot and it is over working the bilge pump. I will get someone to look at it who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 40 minutes ago, ranworthbreeze said: Hello Trev, Welcome to the forum. Dependant on where you moor in Brundall have a word with Alex Frazer he services loads of boats around Brundall. Regards Alan Thank you for the welcome. Yes I know Alex. He fitted my bow thruster. I will give him a ring. He's a nice bloke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Chances are it just needs the locknut slackening and a slight nip up and retighten the locknut, if there is a grease cup on the gland itself that will be the bit you fill, just unscrew the top and pack with grease, replace top and give a nip down till you feel a bit of pressure as that will be pushing grease down, as said before don't over grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveRolaves Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Just a thought, you say there is a greaser cup on the packing gland. The greaser consists of two parts, the bottom part screws into the gland and the top part is a screw down device to force grease into the gland . Is it possible the upper screw down part is missing?? Replacement greasers are readily available from places like ASAP in Beccles and other outlets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnks34 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 There should also be a butterfly valve on the gland inline with the tube. Vital for when you are working on your raw water circuit and you cant work out where all the river water is coming from.......... (yes i mean me!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 7 minutes ago, dnks34 said: There should also be a butterfly valve on the gland inline with the tube. Vital for when you are working on your raw water circuit and you cant work out where all the river water is coming from.......... (yes i mean me!!) Mine don't have a valve, if I disconnect the water pipe from the oil coolers I make sure I cable tie it high up. Mine just have two pipes coming from the top, one is the water feed from the oil cooler, the other is a vent pipe and goes to a breather fitting on the side of the hull. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 After a bit, the "stuffing" gets hard and even tightening it won't cure the drip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 1 hour ago, marshman said: After a bit, the "stuffing" gets hard and even tightening it won't cure the drip! Mine were like that before I repacked, all tightening did was make them run hot and still pi55ed in, a metre of new packing later and job done with enough to spare to do it again. Don't get the ptfe stuff though as it seems to have a reputation for running hot against stainless shafts, stick to the graphite stuff, you would need to measure the size needed first which is easy enough, pop the cover off the gland and measure the gap between shaft and gland (usually 8mm or 10mm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 5 hours ago, DaveRolaves said: Just a thought, you say there is a greaser cup on the packing gland. The greaser consists of two parts, the bottom part screws into the gland and the top part is a screw down device to force grease into the gland . Is it possible the upper screw down part is missing?? Replacement greasers are readily available from places like ASAP in Beccles and other outlets Thanks I'll try that. Hopefully it will all be there. If not I'll look for a replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 5 hours ago, Smoggy said: Chances are it just needs the locknut slackening and a slight nip up and retighten the locknut, if there is a grease cup on the gland itself that will be the bit you fill, just unscrew the top and pack with grease, replace top and give a nip down till you feel a bit of pressure as that will be pushing grease down, as said before don't over grease. Thanks. I think this is what was done fairly recently. I wonder if there is an issue with the packing. I will try this again and if it fails I need someone to look at it. From the posts there seem to be several possibilities. This is an extremely helpful forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 2 hours ago, Smoggy said: Mine were like that before I repacked, all tightening did was make them run hot and still pi55ed in, a metre of new packing later and job done with enough to spare to do it again. Don't get the ptfe stuff though as it seems to have a reputation for running hot against stainless shafts, stick to the graphite stuff, you would need to measure the size needed first which is easy enough, pop the cover off the gland and measure the gap between shaft and gland (usually 8mm or 10mm). This may be my problem. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBerkshireBoy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 When repacking the glands on commercial pumps we cut the ends of the packing rings at a 30 degree slopes which helps to seal the joint better than a straight butt joint and the other thing was to stagger the postion of the joints. First joint at 12 on a clock face, second joint at 4, third joint at 8, fourth joint would be 1, fifth at 5 and sixth at 9 and so on. In the worst case`s we replaced the shaft due to it being worn away and undersized by as much as a 1/8" because people thought they shouldn`t drip and kept tightening the packing ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 Thank you for the advice. I will make sure there is a slight drip. I didn't realise that. Others suggest about one drip a minute. I'll aim for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBerkshireBoy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 15 minutes ago, Trev said: Thank you for the advice. I will make sure there is a slight drip. I didn't realise that. Others suggest about one drip a minute. I'll aim for that Just take your time to achieve the one drip per minute as it is easy to overtighten the packing. Once completed you really want to check on it for a few days until everything is bedded down. Graphite is easier to cut than PTFE however both need a sharp blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 As long as enough shaft is exposed (oh or missus) it's easy to wrap the packing round the shaft in a tight spiral and cut along the top leaving a handful of nicely cut rings with slight angle on the ends just the right size for the gland. Most take 3-4 rings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colino Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 On my alpha 35 the stern gland greaser is under back seat as you enter the cabin on the right. welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnks34 Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 I have only ever repacked the stern gland with the boat out of the water. Not sure Im brave enough to try it in the water unless I had a powerful bilge pump and very good access to the gland. I use 3 rings with the ends cut at angles then stagger the joints when putting them in. This slows water seeping in. Don't be tempted to over tighten as others posters have said it will run hot, ruin the packing and potentially wear down the shaft meaning you will struggle to get a half decent seal at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 5 minutes ago, dnks34 said: I have only ever repacked the stern gland with the boat out of the water. Not sure Im brave enough to try it in the water unless I had a powerful bilge pump and very good access to the gland. I use 3 rings with the ends cut at angles then stagger the joints when putting them in. This slows water seeping in. Don't be tempted to over tighten as others posters have said it will run hot, ruin the packing and potentially wear down the shaft meaning you will struggle to get a half decent seal at all. 5 minutes ago, colino said: On my alpha 35 the stern gland greaser is under back seat as you enter the cabin on the right. welcome Thank you. That's the first place I will look. Hopefully it will be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 7 minutes ago, dnks34 said: I have only ever repacked the stern gland with the boat out of the water. Not sure Im brave enough to try it in the water unless I had a powerful bilge pump and very good access to the gland. I use 3 rings with the ends cut at angles then stagger the joints when putting them in. This slows water seeping in. Don't be tempted to over tighten as others posters have said it will run hot, ruin the packing and potentially wear down the shaft meaning you will struggle to get a half decent seal at all. Thank you. I've heard you need to lift the boat to repack. Last option I reckon. I wonder if it's been over tightened in the past Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boycee Posted August 14, 2019 Share Posted August 14, 2019 Dan from Peachments changed mine in the water at my mooring following putting in a new gearbox 2 weeks earlier with no problems. Could just be that the packing is old, porus and needs replacing Boycee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 14, 2019 Author Share Posted August 14, 2019 Yes. That may be the case. I'll get someone who knows to look at it if a bit more grease doesn't help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted August 21, 2019 Author Share Posted August 21, 2019 I am really grateful for the help with my drip problem. I have located the grease point on my boat. I shlall try adding some grease. But not too much. If this solves it then sll well and good. If not I will look at the packing and some.of the more serious issue if necessary. I'm not sure if everyone gets my posts. From the.number of replies I think that's probable. Anyway thanks to everyone that's helped. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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