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Hot Water / Calorifier


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I realise this is a common topic!

After a gentle cruise from Potter to St Benets this week there was only just enough hot water for 3 of us to wash our hands for a picnic lunch. This doesn't seem right to me.

I won't be able to go to the boat again until next week  but are there any specific things I should look at first.

Broom 29 with shore power but no immersion heater and no inverter.

Thanks in advance for any tips. 

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11 minutes ago, Smoggy said:

Air lock in the coolant/calorifer hoses I suspect, I assume it was fine before and the engine got up to temp ok.

The engine temp was "probably" OK but I also have an electric/instrument issue and half way back I noticed the temp gauge was not registering!

 

Edit to add, temp guage has always been OK and is not part of the instrument issue I have up til now. So in fact it's possible the engine did not get up to temp!

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Hi Ray assuming that you have checked for water leaks with pump turned on release the pressure valve on top of calorifiera by twisting the ****, water should come out if this is so start engine after a few minitits feel the hose that runs from rear of engine to calorifera if warm then feel top hose that goes to heat exchanger this should be cold if not, also warm your engine thermostat needs replacing. John

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Just looking at thermostats in case I need to buy one.

Peachments for example list about 30 for Nanni engines and all I know is the paperwork says it has a Nanni 50.

How would I identify the one I need if it does need replacing?

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22 minutes ago, Ray said:

Just looking at thermostats in case I need to buy one.

Peachments for example list about 30 for Nanni engines and all I know is the paperwork says it has a Nanni 50.

How would I identify the one I need if it does need replacing?

Takeit to Peachments and ask for a replacement.  Sorry Ray, that sounds sarcastic, but it’s not meant to be.  It’s what I’d do.

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40 minutes ago, Ray said:

Just looking at thermostats in case I need to buy one.

Peachments for example list about 30 for Nanni engines and all I know is the paperwork says it has a Nanni 50.

How would I identify the one I need if it does need replacing?

Part number stamped on it somewhere perhaps?

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47 minutes ago, Ray said:

Just looking at thermostats in case I need to buy one.

Peachments for example list about 30 for Nanni engines and all I know is the paperwork says it has a Nanni 50.

How would I identify the one I need if it does need replacing?

Hopefully there will be an engine number and/or engine code on the engine somewhere(sorry I'm not familiar with Nanni engines) which should tell Peachments what they need to give you the correct one(I would think). If in doubt give them any numbers you can find or even take a picture of the engine to show them. 

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Thermostat and gasket being sent to me by Peachments (very helpful by the way)

It's a while since I worked on engines in any capacity, what are your opinions on applying liquid/silicone gasket in addition to the standard one supplied please?

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Depends on the type of gasket, rubber shouldn't need anything, cork just needs a bit of grease, setting silicon is the work of satan and should be banished as it will just leave bits of stringy silicon inside the cooling system waiting to block something.

Whatever you use do it as thinly as possible, a new gasket on a clean face shouldn't need anything but a smear of grease makes then easier to repair and reuse on the go in the middle of nowhere.

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Hi Ray Silicon is usefully used in place of a  gasket. often aluminium castings use silicon in place of a gasket, quicker and cheaper on a assembly line, thermostat housings use a rubber ring,   cork gasket or thick paper gaskets, this is because of the possible movement as temp goes up and down on housing, often a smear of grease or hylomer or red hermotite is used if casting surface has corroded and pitied though time or housing may have warped, all should be used sparingly and surplus wiped from edge after tighting and only tighten wrist tight. John

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If the thermostat is housed inside the actual heat exchanger itself (as it was on my nanni 50hp) be very careful removing the bolts.  I forget if there were 4 or 6 but each one sheered and the complete heat exchanger had to come off for repair.  Luckily it was coming off anyway as it was cracked.  Hopefully you wont have the same trouble. 

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9 minutes ago, dnks34 said:

If the thermostat is housed inside the actual heat exchanger itself (as it was on my nanni 50hp) be very careful removing the bolts.  I forget if there were 4 or 6 but each one sheered and the complete heat exchanger had to come off for repair.  Luckily it was coming off anyway as it was cracked.  Hopefully you wont have the same trouble. 

Thanks for the warning, I'll definitely proceed with caution!

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On 16/03/2022 at 12:52, dnks34 said:

If the thermostat is housed inside the actual heat exchanger itself (as it was on my nanni 50hp) be very careful removing the bolts.  I forget if there were 4 or 6 but each one sheered and the complete heat exchanger had to come off for repair.  Luckily it was coming off anyway as it was cracked.  Hopefully you wont have the same trouble. 

The housing is next to the heat exchanger on mine and the 4 bolts are nicely accessible. I remembered what you said though and proceeded with as much caution as I could, which wasn't much I guess.... 3 of them sheered off!

At least I knew from your post that it could happen so I didn't tear my hair out lol

The lovely people at Sutton Staithe Boatyard are coming next week to fix it for me. I know I could attempt this as a DIY job but it's always best I think to know my limitations and not risk making a bad job worse 👍

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