Smoggy

Don't have a dehumidifier, have a small solar panel inside the hatch glass connected to a PC case fan in a roof vent, during daylight always have active ventilation, the planet is warm enough without pointless power use. Oh yeah, don't have damp either, 6 years now on this boat and not an issue.

Did it have a ball valve where you thought it had a c*ck? Good job it wasn't a bo11ock valve.

I'm sure they are fine if you are a prime member but if you don't wish to a prime member the whole setup is aimed at tricking you into becoming one, I had to cancel a couple of times when I'd tried to buy something without and I consider myself fairly yech savvy, hence I avoid if at all possible. Of course once you are a member it's just too easy to go straight to them for everything.

Out of interest how heavy is this corian stuff?

Wicken lode is a must do when on those rivers, it really feels like winding you way up a hill on the water, and back down on the way out, it's not obviously it's flat but feels like it. Not done those rivers for a good few years now.

Doh! I've been bitten by the same auto correct bug, that was supposed to be chiropodist.

That's a posh looking stern thruster under Hi-Jinks Carole, at least now I know you're cheating when mooring go perfect. Looks like they've done a nice job, mines back in the water now so should be looking a lot better below deck level, thick green above though.

Much the same as RB I very rarely buy from amazon, just don't like the company so I go elsewhere first if possible.

A true jack of all trades, boat builder and chiropractor.... You gotta love auto correct.

Truly a man to be proud of Vaughan, thanks for posting JM. A one legged Chinese admiral has to have a joke lurking somewhere....

Zebra muscles were a PITA on the gt.ouse, a right sod to pick out from outboard motors and prone to getting into water intakes when tiny and growing causing blockages it not regularly used.

When I had an inland only boat on fresh water I would get the smallest/cheapest tin and do around the waterline first then work under till it ran out, the bits that didn't get done stayed with whatever was there, it was just a pretty up excercise. The main thing is to jetwash as soon as the boat is lifted and all inland crud will just drop off, leave it to dry and it will take a major scraping excercise as it sets like concrete, if the boat is being lifted while you're not there it's well worth paying the yard extra to jetwash.

This is the his/hers setup you are looking for. And there's one just for Griff.

I never found it that welcoming so never really made much effort to visit unless popping into brian wards for something, always seemed dark and dingy inside and as for the office/table, what the flip? Never tried the food so can't comment, if it had a mooring we would have visited more often, on one occaision we moored under brooms crane on a bank holiday weekend and went in but I think they have a bigger fence now.

Hand pumped loo any day, having a flat battery is a pain at anytime but even worse when your legs are crossed. I've never felt pumping the loo enough of a trial or hardship to even consider changing it and it's so simple it just works, always. (old RM69)

I have my booster booked for tomorrow morning at our local centre. SWMBO has done a fair bit of voluteering there and it seems to drop off the online booking list every so often for reasons unknown, sometimes it's shown as fully booked and they have seen 30 people during the day, not so much now it's doing walk-ins but the online side seems to have had lots of gremlins. My invites have come via my gp through texts I've not had any issues, same with flu jab.

It largely depends where you moor as well, different water chemistry supports different growth, for well inland with mostly fresh water a quick coat around the waterline where the light gets (mostly for aesthetics) will probably suffice, if on salty water growth can be a bit more determined to hang on, change area often enough and a lot will die and drop off as it can't cope with the different water conditions. I just chucked a quick coat under mine which was last done in early 2019 and after a pressure wash it was fairly clean, I didn't see it when it was lifted so can't comment, I use a cheapy claimed up to 40 knots antifoul (semi-hard, https://premiermarinepaints.co.uk/antifouling/semi-hard-antifouling-paint) with next to no preparation (wire brush off loose bits and slop it on), I know a guy who spent a fortune on fancy stuff with all the primers from bare gelcoat and it fell off in sheets first time he opened it up in the wash.. In short, how long is a piece of string?

RLM31 Vaughn but not far different from the elysian hull, my doors would never shut once opened when on chocks so it works both ways, I can't see how chocks on a few key places can ever support a boat as well as soft boat shaped mud that dries in a boat shape, obviously you have years of experience of running boat yards that I wouldn't consider trying to argue against. Maintenance wise I can't really comment as I know nowt about hire fleet regimes.

But without knowing what outside/underside maintenance has already been carried out, what actual harm is sitting in the mud doing? Nothing can be blown off chocks in unexpected gales.

Could go either way, book hemsby lifeboat to tow to shore or greenpeace to tow deeper. Edit: Oh bu55er! Just remembered Grendel is chief moderator, that's me banned....

If cav filter head (very common for pre filter) it's very easy to miss the top O ring and put a new one in on top of it, they just fit but distort and let air in so will run till the air builds up then stop needing bleeding, then will do the same again. If working upside down in a tight engine bay you will highly likely fall foul of this sooner or later thinking the seal must have dropped somewhere but will still be there.

But is it actually doing them any harm? If not then why go to all the effort of lifting and chocking with greater risk of damage or moving them? I would imagine there's still more warmth in that mud/water than the air over winter so probably less chance of frost damage, ground source heat pumps are far more efficient than air source for the same reason.

That is a normal mooring for a lot of people in drying harbours and while they are sat in the mud no amount of wind is going to cause them issues rubbing against each other, as long as the bottom is soft enough and the prop and shaft are not too exposed. And if the nav authority drain the canal there's not a lot le boat can do about it, even a lock gate will only keep the level in for so long (one tide maybe but not a winter). This was my old boat moored on the moorings at Maldon in 2012, a mooring like this for my current would likely do lots of damage, as it was it was a fairly regular thing for Leo as it had been moored on the medway on a half tide only mooring prior to my ownership. That night we waited for high water and moved forward a boat length as the bottom was flatter (a thames barge had been moored there) and it was lot easier to sleep.

As someone that builds engines for a living I had to take the handbook out of our van into the carshop next door and point in a "what the flip" manor to get oil for a top up the other day, a nice simple mineral/semi-synth/synth and grade was so easy. We just use a straight 80 (aero grades seem to just double the number) mineral gloop in the stuff we run and hand mix an inhibitor with it or W80 for turbo'd engines.

That's langstone harbour after southern water have had a rain storm....