Broad Ambition - The Model

[grendel]

I thought I would see how it looks with th dashboard and floors in place.

[Smoggy]

[Ray]

Looks fantastic! 👍🍺

[BroadAmbition]

Looks fantastic! 👍🍺

Doesn't it just

Griff

[grendel]

aargh, you know its time to stop when you upset the selection box of heat shrink for the second time, but to mitigate that I have completed cockpit light 3, I also forgot to thread the wires through the bulkhead before soldering on the connector at the end, fortunately it fit through the hole- just.

[grendel]

cockpit light 4 connected

[grendel]

Another thing I had been wondering how I could manage was the stainless steel reg numbers for the side of the boat, i didnt have tools that could easily cut the stainless steel foil I had purchased, then suddenly i realised there may be a way, a quick half an hour creating the file, finding a similar enough font and then exporting it in machine language, and it was time to  try various different cutters.

The first, a 1mm end mill snapped in the blink of an eye, then i thought to try a 10 degree V bit, these are extremely sharp, and could pierce the 0.2mm stainless foil I had, so using a masking tape and superglue hold down method (a layer of masking tape on the stainless sheet and another on the spoil board, and superglue between the tape) thus was the foil held down, then came the cutting, pleased to say the CNC router managed this effortlessly, and I then had my sets of stainless steel numbers for the sides, all done from 0.2mm thick stainless steel, now ready to be stuck to the model.

[grendel]

for comparison- the real thing

[Ray]

I can feel another Wow! coming on! 👍

 

[BroadAmbition]

Think I’ve run out of ‘Wows’

Note to self - order next consignment in bulk for this thread alone

Griff

[Smoggy]

If you get a surveyor to measure up that model Griff I recon you could save a bundle on your toll, they'd never know the difference from a distance.

[grendel]

bolstered by the success with the registration numbers, i decided to give a go with the rear deck hatches and well deck hatch, so had another go, they came out a lot neater than trying to cut them by hand, though I do need to flatten them as they twisted slightly while I was releasing them

[BroadAmbition]

If you haven’t done the s/steel plates for the fenders eyes - Don’t bother as we are doing away with them next month after new rubbing strakes are fitted. The top one will be 1” thinner or reduced to two laminates rather than three. Shouldn’t make any difference to your models. The wheelhouse and galley decks will be replaced with Holly n Teak with no aluminium strips. Hope this helps 

Griff

[ZimbiIV]

Peter, how I flatten metal bits like that is to put them between 2 sheets of kitchen paper an use a coolish iron and turn often, never failed yet.

You need to be able to touch the base of the iron, how you test it is upto you.

paul

[grendel]

yesterday at my astonomy club meeting a friend gave me a couple of gauge blocks he had found and not had need for(we do this, stuff passes easily back and forwards as we get it, so we no longer bother to ask for anything in return, a bit of give and take- it works well and we both get useful bits.

Anyway, these gauge blocks, despite not being spotless they were still able to be rung together (gauge blocks should be so accurately faced, that if you press them together at right angles you can then twist them parallel, and they will stick together, just by the property of being very flat)

so I used these to flatten the hatch trims.

after that, I got down to wiring the starboard navigation light I had installed the other day, the wiring for this runs down just inside the cockpit, as the roof was in the way inside the forward cabin, the wires actually go straight into the bulkhead first, they are positioned slightly low compared to the real thing due to this wiring issue, and due to the position of the folding screen side panels, that was as high as i could get the fitting.

[BroadAmbition]

Looks spot on to me. 

Be a shame at some point not to make proper use of the Nav lights - Night Navving the model is going to be interesting

Griff

[Smoggy]

One of the vices at work has had the jaws machined flat and parallel, it is very useful for flat sheet and makes a good mini press too Mr. G.

[grendel]

And the miniature Jack Powles Builders badge is as complete as it will be, I can say I am happy with this, bearing in mind it is smaller than my little fingernail, enough detail is visible to show it has writing on it, I wont be taking this further though, its beyond the limit of how small my machine can achieve, by  long way, and it surprises me that I have got results as good as this, I was going to be happy with a brass oval with just the border showing, to get additional (even unreadable) detail was a bonus.

[grendel]

an extreme blowup of the models build plate

[grendel]

the CNC machine accuracy is measured in at 0.1mm, thats only 80 units of resolution across the width of this tiny part, 

[Ray]

Brilliant job!

[Smoggy]

You aint gonna get better than than that without spending a fortune so I would say that is pretty damned good, and if anyone moans you can't read it tell them to get their eyes tested.

[Bikertov]

7 hours ago, grendel said:

the CNC machine accuracy is measured in at 0.1mm, thats only 80 units of resolution across the width of this tiny part, 

I think the only way you could achieve better resolution is with some sort of etching process, like they use to make PCBs.

What you have done here must really be the limit of machining, and is truly admirable.

[grendel]

only a little bit of work today, registration numbers fixed backwards to some sellotape that was attached to a straight edge for alignment purposes, epoxy mixed up and applied, then fixed to the cabin side, once the epoxy had set, it was peel off the sellotape time, then a second deck light was installed, this means I have 2 to wire up when I get time.

[grendel]

first of the Starboard deck lights wired in, this one is the most tricky as the wire emerges just sandwiched between the cockpit side and the sliding sash window, once I had wired it, fixing the wiring down was no easier as the cable ties were just at fingertip length beneath the cabin sole supports, fingertips and long nose pliers, plus a lot of patience got the job done in the end.