MBA Marine

A dripping relief valve is not always obvious as it can be piped into the bilge or overboard, a tale tail is the water pump kicking in for a short burst at fairly regular intervals but no signs of plumbing leaking.

Shes a fairly old looking tank, after going through Vaughan's points with bleeding the coolant pipes, next up, is that old relief valve drip drip dripping away? if so the hot water made is escaping and being replaced with cold. Not that, then is your tank half full with scale, Norfolk has some shockingly hard water and scale builds up to very large levels leaving you no room for water and covering the coil inside limits the heat exchange possible, last point is the coil inside is sometimes not so clever and its construction means that even though the tank is from your pictures mounted the correct way up if the coil does not loop to the bottom of the tank it will only heat from the coil up over and a lot of the tank could still be cold.

Jabsco 2.9 is what I fit to most Broads applications, performs well, however if you have a large boat with multiple showers then you might want a larger model to cope with the potential demand increase.

Then every 2 years cut 1/2" off your stand pipe!!

Change the galvanic isolator for one without lights!!

Well if you wanted a business partner.........

You will get a parking ticket, i did once but thankfully had it quashed.

A fortuitously timed visit to the Buck today and I was luck enough to meet a couple of regular forum contributors, gentlemen it was a pleasure to meet you in person.

No quick remedies and she a old unit that is well and truly being phased out, Heater plug is your first port of call but something is trying to pull a heck of a lot of juice to be pulling lights down with engine running, I would have expected the breaker to trip.

Anchors?? are you taking your Dandy coastal?

Sadly I would not, people take their boats to yards thinking that yards know what they're doing, most do, some that don't know seek advice and some work on a 'well it works and thats how I have always done it' practice. For example I re-wired the domestics on a boat and as I was removing the old I found a scratty bit of 1mm running down the boat providing power to a number of pumps water and drainage, then I look to the recently installed leccy toilet and find it powered via a choccy block cut in this same 1mm, look to the fuse to find it uprated to 30a to cope with the loo!!! worst of all distance from distribution to loo was about 3m and an easy run, the owner was not a DIYer and informed me where the loo had been fitted. even the best boats can have a nasty behind the scenes.

You may have a function on the boat not working and incorrectly fused so it does not blow/trip out, for example a bilge pump that has failed but still getting the call to operate from its switch, if a function has failed and creating a short then you will get a rapid power drop. In an ideal world this couldn't happen as the correct size cable and appropriate fusing would always be used, sadly this ain't a perfect word and I have found many an example of bad practice and not always DIY.

Kent motorsailer 27' for sale, high spec boat, selling on behalf of its owner please msg me if you have interest and i will put you in contact. £8500 ono http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301894412921?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

When you are as busy as I you replace them often!!!

for that, I will asses the quality when they arrive but cheap enough to take a punt on, that's two ordered for the shelf.

This has been somewhat of a slow burner as going out and earning pennies has taken priority, but here is the 1st superstructure, hull No.2 is laid up and ready for release. one more top and component set to go and that's two full sets, more than enough to work with for now and the moulds can go to bed, unless you all bombard me with orders!!

That would be what the guy who made my 17' mould based it on, if you look at my profile pic you will see it has many similar lines.

Websites do not have everything on them!!! you need to phone around, most projects are shifted on Ebay and Gumtree but some are not yet in the way enough to be listed online.

Maybe I should have read the article! but once gone rarely do these big Norfolk built boats return, once in my time at Lanamores did we have a Oyster back for a refit after it had fire damage, most repairs are carried out on location away for the yard, this was always the case for Windboats as well, Gunfleet for those that didnt know is a brand of boats from Mr Matthews who founded and built up before selling off Oyster.

Its a 'Gunfleet' i would think its new from Windboats heading Ipswitch way for launch.

The trouble with the smaller cabin cruiser boats with inboards is they often have an outdrive, there are people on here who will tell you how good they are and will probably post a picture of theirs as well, but my honest advice is stay clear if you can, inboard on a shaft drive will cost you a lot less time and money to maintain. A gentleman named Jon may well be along soon (although he frequents Facebook a lot more these days) you can't visit much social media without finding out he sells boats!! Jon at wayford marine services does have a project or two in the yard and might be worth a look.

This thread has me thinking, how many who post on here have never hired a boat? In my adult life I have never hired a boat other than a dayboat once when I was approx 19yrs old, as a 7ish yr old I had my only hired broads holiday. I am in a position of privilege with a number of customers having offered me the use of their boats but it's very rare that I get the chance to take them up on their generous offer.

Sounds like you have not got the head torqued down correctly, or debris stopping the head sealing 100% on the gasket.

If German shepherd dogs were used as star wars storm troopers this what the helmets would look like!!

Link the coolant pipes together top up the coolant tank and all will be fine.