Golden Light 5

[Robin]

The inside of the hull gets cleaned and painted again with Danboline bilge paint, white above and grey below the  chine. 

We don't remove all the bulkheads at once to leave some strength to the structure.

While my wife is painting I start on the starboard cabin side, the more observant of you will have noticed the old were ply and I am putting back solid mahogany. Along with the ply bulkheads  this is probably the only other deviation from the original.

The rational for this is

1, it should look better, 2, if I use ply I would have to join two sheets together to  get the required length, 3, The cockpit sides below the runners where these sides will join are already made of mahogany.

If you look carefully the old  joint is about 400mm behind the windscreen.

  Board cut to length no going back now!

The process for both sides are the same, you will notice a mixture of port and starboard sides in the next group of photos. 

At 600mm wide I don't have a planner wide enough to thickness my board so I have to do it by hand, first I plane one side flat then I belt sand  at a 45 degree angle across the board it makes it easier to get it flat, when I'm happy with the first side, I sand it with a DA sander  to remove any marks from the belt sander. turn it over and start again this time I have to use a Vernier gauge on the edge to make sure in is parallel and a consistent thickness throughout. Not an easy job to get right.

I use the old cabin side as a template.

After marking, I cut out the window apertures.

The first side ready to fit.

[Robin]

With the cabin sides cut and fitted in place, the cabin front was next, another board was cut to size and as with the sides the old front was use as a pattern.

The aperture was prepared for the new front the old deck beam was clad in a new piece of mahogany to match.

This facia is screwed to the beam and a small capping piece is fitted to the top it is beveled at the front edge and will support the base of the new front.

A corner post is fitted along with a support  beam to the top of the panel.

The corner posts have an internal and external section.

The corner posts are epoxy glued and screwed in place, the reason we fit a corner post is to cover the end grain of the main boards to reduce the chance of water ingress. the screw holes get covered with pellets and sanded flush.

I get a little bit OCD regarding fitting pellets. first I use a Forstner bit to drill the hole, this type of drill has a cutter on its edge which gives a very clean edge to the hole, I then use tapered pellets which wedges in tight to give an almost invisible glue line.

With the sides and front fitted, to finish off I fit a cant rail to the base.

[JanetAnne]

I'm a little bit gutted really....  I have been very fortunate to be around Robins place, over the last few years whilst Kingfisher has been transformed but this time, the final stretch, the lock down means I am not getting to see it in the flesh.

On the good side Robin isn't being constantly stopped by my barrage of questions nor is he having to clean up the decks where I have inadvertently drooled!

On the bad side though, he is there running amok with big chunks of mahogany and nobody to keep him in check. 

Anyway, my silly question, Is that sikaflex the cabin front is bedded down onto (the black bead across the bottom)?

 

[JennyMorgan]

Likewise we had a boat at Robins, he has a darn good set up there. Must be one of the best boat lifts on the Broads.

[Robin]

Hi Janet Anne

Yes it is Sikaflex on this occasion, to be more precise i used the 290 DC (Deck Caulk) which is more flexible than the 291i, which is an adhesive/sealant.  The cant rails are bedded on Arbbo Mast a none setting butyl rubber sealing compound. (perhaps I'm not just OCD about wooden pellets?)

Robin

[BroadAmbition]

Robin, if I ever get rich and too old to maintain ’B.A’. You have another client 

Griff

[Robin]

With the cabin sides and front in place it time to start fitting the bulkheads.

The picture above is of the main bulkhead between the center cockpit and the forward cabin, as with all the others it is made of chipboard however this one at some point  had been clad over with thin ply.

The next picture is the new one viewed from the other side, to save time we varnish some of the bulkheads before I fit them, this can be a risky you need to be very carful and very confident it will fit.

A small piece fits behind  the steps up to the center cockpit.

The next one is painted white as it forms the inside of a small cupboard only 250mm wide.

The next picture shows all three on the starboard side fitted.

You will have noticed that I have removed the the complete coach roof, this was not part of the original plan, I had planed to keep it in situ however the inside face was not in a great condition and would have taken many hours to strip and re-finish, we also found some damage when I removed the windscreen base so I decided it would make things a lot easier and quicker if we ditched it. 

The port bulkhead behind the helm is next, cut to shape and varnished before fitting.

And after installation.

I love  the grain in this panel unfortunately it will be on the inside of a cupboard!!  

Next to go in is the forward port one this sits between the forward berth and the sink area so it needed the edge lip fitting before varnishing, so it goes straight in.

That brings you more or less up to date with the last bulkhead scheduled to be fitted tomorrow evening.

[JennyMorgan]

9 hours ago, BroadAmbition said:

Robin, if I ever get rich and too old to maintain ’B.A’. You have another client 

Griff

Robin might have retired by then!

[Turnoar]

Robin, note the varnishing after readying for fit bit before actual fit; witnessed my grandfather and father doing this on Norfolk Dinghy rebuilds, centre-plate case base was a common starotting point, a rebuilt boat is usually gooder than new as you have had admirably shown!

[Robin]

Form here to the end of the project my posts will be a bit more spread out and will show what we are doing at any one time.

Over the weekend we fitted the last of the larger bulkheads.

After varnishing

 And fitted.

It forms the side of a cupboard and this side will be the side to a sink unit.

The previous bulkhead which went in plain now gets its stain.

With all the bulkheads now in and fixed to the hull in their original positions, they all need fixing to the cabin sides while checking that they are straight and and parallel to each other.

The first pair have a curved beam fixed to the top of the bulkheads, the old one had seen better days so I make a new one. I use the old as a template.

First I cut the board with a jigsaw to the top edge followed by the second cut done on the bandsaw which is more accurate.

The sides are run over the planner to smooth the faces and the top and bottom edge is shaped with a spoke shave.

 

I fix this to the bulkheads which starts to tie things together and give me a point from where everything can be measured from.

When fitted I plane the top so the beam and bulkhead are flush.

The furthest beam is the new one with the old beam in the foreground  used as a temporary support. I use temporary battens pinned to the tops to hold everything in position. I can now fix these to the cabin sides.

As I am using quality ply bulkheads I could fix straight through the cabin sides and into the edge of the ply however the original had a timber molding to add support to the chipboard bulkheads, this is quite a nice feature so  I will re use what I can and make new to match.  

And fitted in place.

The top edge of cabin sides have a similar molding to add strength and gives extra thickness which makes the coach roof to cabin side joint stronger.

While I'm playing with the woodwork Chris sands the transom, rubbing strakes and toe rails ready for more varnish.

[andyg]

Absolutely fantastic thread and most enjoyable to read and see golden light's progress, but I have to ask !!! Is golden light a bit like triggers broom...thanks again 

[Vaughan]

6 minutes ago, andyg said:

but I have to ask !!! Is golden light a bit like triggers broom.

Mike Barnes used to reckon that all that was left of the original Maidie when he had finished re-building her, were the two portholes in the front of the cabin!

[Robin]

35 minutes ago, andyg said:

but I have to ask !!! Is golden light a bit like triggers broom...thanks again 

Good question, At the moment her hull still has its original planks, the ribs are original along with her keel and frames, 75% of her transom is original and the aft cabin roof. The engine and gearbox are all original.

The glass in the windows seem to be the originals (OK I'm clutching at straws with that one)

I would guess she is about 50% original so i have replaced the handle on Triggers broom but still have the original head.

Perhaps a question for the forum is at what percentage does a boat go from being an original to a replica?

My opinion is if it still has most of its original keel its still original.

Robin

[Islander]

Hi Robin. If it’s not a trade secret, can you tell us where you source your timber and ply. If not second best please . The WBP hardwood ply these days is absolute rubbish with a veneer thinner than an airmail letter and marine is either only suitable for duck ponds or requires giving them an arm and a leg plus a couple of grandchildren.

I must say I have been loving reading every bit of this restoration and can’t wait for the next episode.

Colin 

[JanetAnne]

13 minutes ago, Islander said:

Hi Robin. If it’s not a trade secret, can you tell us where you source your timber and ply. If not second best please . The WBP hardwood ply these days is absolute rubbish with a veneer thinner than an airmail letter and marine is either only suitable for duck ponds or requires giving them an arm and a leg plus a couple of grandchildren.

I must say I have been loving reading every bit of this restoration and can’t wait for the next episode.

Colin 

Your wallet is about to file for divorce 

It is absolutely beautiful plywood though 

[Robin]

Hi Islander

Unfortunately i don't know of anywhere locally that supplies good quality marine grade.

I get my ply from a company in Bristol  named Robbins Timber they do a  Lloyd's approved marine range starting with one called Elite ( Gaboon throughout) then Super elite ( Rotary cut Sapele) they also supply all boat building hard woods.

For African Mahogany or any boat building stock, it is Sykes timber in Warwickshire or Stones timber in Salcombe.

But please be seated when asking them for prices.

 

[Islander]

Thanks for the info. I had a feeling that your answer wasn’t going to be local. Looks like I had better get myself a bottle of rum before I ask but then it’s only money isn’t it just don’t tell the mrs.

Look forward to seeing Kingfisher out and about this year and maybe at Beccles woody show.

Thanks again, you have probably saved me trolling around Norfolk and Suffolk timber yards fruitlessly.

Colin 

[WherryNice]

5 hours ago, Robin said:

Good question, At the moment her hull still has its original planks, the ribs are original along with her keel and frames, 75% of her transom is original and the aft cabin roof. The engine and gearbox are all original.

The glass in the windows seem to be the originals (OK I'm clutching at straws with that one)

I would guess she is about 50% original so i have replaced the handle on Triggers broom but still have the original head.

Perhaps a question for the forum is at what percentage does a boat go from being an original to a replica?

My opinion is if it still has most of its original keel its still original.

Robin

I think it depends as much on how the work was carried out as it does on how much material was replaced. 

For example if an old boat was laid up on the hard and someone built a new exact copy next to it but then transferred a few bits and pieces over from old to new then I would think of it as a replica as both boats 'existed' at the same time. 

However if the old boat was taken apart and rebuilt in such a way that the form of the boat is always visible in the same place then even if the same amount of material is replaced with the same old bits and pieces re-used then the boat is still original.

Leo is rebuilding Tally Ho in this manner and I quite agree with it, as you can tell.

If you think about it, as humans, we are all 'triggers broom' as all of our cells get renewed over time, it's only the things that aren't physical that keep 'us' as 'us'.

Just my opinion of course.

On a side note, I formed these opinions after a short spell working for a car 'restoration' place that would often 'restore' a car(Minis inparticular) by basically building a new one(not always with a brand new shell either!)and whacking the number plates and VIN on it from the old car.

Sometimes the old car also lived on under another ID too.

I found it all rather murky but was too young to really say much about it at the time.

 

[socrates]

Another very enjoyable restoration thread, many thanks for sharing your experiences . It was good to meet you and have a look at Kingfisher (Golden Light 5) at Beccles when we were on Mona's Queen (Golden Light 1), in company with Manxman (Golden Light ?) They are lovely boats and well worth the hard work to restore them.  

Posted this picture in a previous post, but it does show the off the shape of the Golden Light boats. (picture taken by Nipper's crew when we were crossing Breydon Water in August). 

[PaulN]

Robin - Thank you for sharing this project with us and dazzling us with your skills, I've really enjoyed following it even though my boat is all tupperware. Please keep up the progress photos.

You wont need mirrors in the 'heads' that fabulous varnish work will be plenty good enough for combing your hair 

 

 

[Robin]

Continuing with the moldings to the inside of the cabin sides one of the most  labor intensive items is the window hopers. starting with the bottom channel.  

The forward cabin sides have quite a curve to them which means I have to first shape a section of timber against the side followed by a  rebated section which will hold the base of the glass and from which everything will be built on.

Step one is to clamp a section of timber to the cabin side then using a small block I scribe a line along the timber.

With the timber marked I cut them out on the bandsaw.

 

Next I cutout an angled rebated section on my dim saw, its the best tool to use for this job as the blade will tilt to give  an angled cut and the blade  will lower which allows me to form the rebate.

 

These two sections are glued together.

While I'm playing with the windows Chris uses the time to freshen up  some varnished items. The main table gets sanded and a couple of coats of varnish.

 

Next on her hit list is the windscreen, after a quick sand and the  glass taped its even more varnish.

The next item is a step which was originally  in the forward cabin but we are going to use these in the aft cockpit as I have new plans for the forward cabin.

Finally the wheel get a revamp.

[BroadAmbition]

Workmanship and varnishing - Simply marvellous 

Griff

[Robin]

Its been a little while since my last post, mainly due to the work involved in the next step. The new coach roof to the forward cabin which has been a bit of a challenge.

The roof itself  is curved in two directions a bit like an upturned saucer, unfortunately ply doesn't like bending in two different planes at the same time.

The original roof was built using a system  called cold molding  basically laying and gluing layers of thin ply over a former of the desired shape  and when set holds its formed shape. This is a very labor intensive process but does produce a very strong roof if done correctly.

The advantage of this system means you end up with a roof which doesn't  have and permanent beams inside the cabin giving you the maximum headroom.

Herbert Woods would probably have made a former on a bench then produced all the roof sections for all six golden lights in one go, I don't know if they used this setup for any other boats?

I however have no other option but to build my former in situ then remove it after I have constructed  my roof.

Step one is the preparation of the cabin sides and tops of the bulkheads.

When  we installed the new bulkheads I left them a little tall so I can now shape them to the new curve and with the correct bevel to fit the new roof . 

The next picture shows the top of the bulkheads.

I use a batten laid across the tops of the forward and aft bulkheads to show me the angle I have to plane the tops of the bulkheads to.

My trusty assistant holds the batten in place.

Now onto the cabin sides, these  need an angle planed to the top edge however the angle changes as you move forward or aft. I fix a small  piece of timber to both ends of a temporary curved beam which I move a long the cabin side to indicate the angle I need to plane to.

And after

The forward and aft sections are just planed flush with the beams.

That completes the works to the boat ready to start building the former.

 

 

 

[Robin]

Before I start making the main formers I fit an angled batten to the cabin sides this will be used to temporarily hold the ply down at the edges. the plastic sheet is clamped behind the  batten to protect the cabin sides from any excess glue.

Next I cut a  curve on one edge of some  ply  which matches the curve of the beam fitted to the aft bulkhead, after cutting them out  I clamp them together  and shape the top to make sure they are all identical.

Due to the fact that I have to be able to remove the former from below after the roof is complete I have to fix battens to the sides of these bearers  to allow me to fix the cover battens from the underside.

Because I have to fit around the bulkheads I end up making seven temporary beams, These are the fitted into the boat.

They are set in place and supported on timber posts, accuracy at this point is paramount they need to be exactly 20mm below the sides and bulkheads this is the thickness of my cover battens, any discrepancies at this point will show in the finished article.

We now fit the cover battens and fix  from below.

With the former complete I can start fitting the first layers. The inside of the original roof was a product called Hornideck this was a hardboard sheet with a white painted finish. 

I intent to use a white Formica sheet glued to 4mm ply, when stuck together I obviously   place the white side down against the former.

I cut the Formica to the required size and glue it to the ply. I'm using a spray contact adhesive, you don't get any  fumes like the old contact adessives  and it dries in less than minute.

After the glue has dried I trim the ply to size allowing an over lap at the sides which is my temporary fixing strip.

We lay both sheets on the former and hold them down with a couple of weights.

These are then stapled at the outer edges to the timber we fitted to the cabin sides earlier.  we cut the next layer and fit it  diagonally across the roof,  generally ply will lay flatter across a double curve this way.

When cut we cover the first layer with epoxy glue and lay on the next sheets.

It is very important to make sure the sheets are tight together over the entire area, I use an old fashioned method of stapling the top layer to the previous one  to hold it down tight  however I don't want to leave the staples in so I fire the staples over a strip of string so they  can be easily removed after the glue has set.

The rows of string are about 130mm apart and I staple at about 75mm intervals approximately 1000 per layer  

At the outer edge the staples can stay as we will be cutting about 40mm off when complete.

Guess who got the job of removing the staples?

The next layer is set at 90 degrees to the last one and fixed using the same method.

The final layer is cut into half sheets and set across the boat.

After letting the glue set for a couple of days we remove the formers from the inside to reveal our new internal deck head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[BroadAmbition]

A proper

'Wow'

Griff