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Zx1 Micro Oil Metal Treatment In A Newage Prm 160 Gearbox?


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Hi all, I've read on here that some use (if not swear by) ZX1 Micro Oil Metal Treatment in their engines, gearboxes, and anywhere else there's metal to metal contact.

I've purchased some to put in my Nanni Diesel (4.190HE) for the first time, but as anybody put it in a Newage PRM 160 gearbox?

I contacted the manufacturer of the gearbox directly and they didn't recommend I add it.

Anybody got any specific experience with a PRM 160?

Steve

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Why add it?

My experience with gearboxes that a regular change of quality oil is that all it needs, these are not high stress items unless slammed into opposite directions while still turning and no amount of additives will help that.

But im open to arguments.

Same with engines really. I've had discussions with our plant fitters and they maintain that oil and filter changes is all that modern engine needs.

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4 minutes ago, OldBerkshireBoy said:

A friend tells me that some older PRM gearboxes have a fibre type clutch plate compared to the later all metal ones and doesn`t recommend adding an additive. Kubota do not recommend additives nor synthetic oils.

This guy know`s his stuff.

That's good to know. :91_thumbsup:

Not sure which one I have, other than it was sold in March 1995 to AR Peachment as part of the initial boat build.

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Just to add, a rep once told me that if these additives did anything the big oil  companies would add them. 
to me it’s a bit like headache tablets in a bright silver and red box. 
You think it must be better than the generic pills sold for a quarter of the price because of the flash package and bold writing. 
when in fact it’s exactly the same product regulated by law. 

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Thanks for the guidance.

Because I've already purchased (and I don't like to waste anything as a true Yorkshireman :default_biggrin:) I'll do an oil change on the engine and put it in there to see if there's a difference, but I'll leave the gearbox 'as is'.

cheers

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Gear boxes don't just have steel parts in them that's why gearboxes of the same make have different types of oil, its the little bushes thrust's, cages etc that are made from alloys that have different additive needs, BMW gearboxes are a classic case they have four different oils in them you only know which by the colour code at the filler plug, its all down to what thrust bearing alloy metals that were available at the time of manufacture, all ways only use type recommended by manufacturer other wise you can get premature wear and  failure. The sellers of the wrong oil will not be responsible they will just laugh all the way to the bank having taken your money for this elixir off !!!. John

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31 minutes ago, annv said:

Gear boxes don't just have steel parts in them that's why gearboxes of the same make have different types of oil, its the little bushes thrust's, cages etc that are made from alloys that have different additive needs, BMW gearboxes are a classic case they have four different oils in them you only know which by the colour code at the filler plug, its all down to what thrust bearing alloy metals that were available at the time of manufacture, all ways only use type recommended by manufacturer other wise you can get premature wear and  failure. The sellers of the wrong oil will not be responsible they will just laugh all the way to the bank having taken your money for this elixir off !!!. John

Hi John, Thankfully the engine and gear box specify the same oil type - 15w40 mineral oil, so I can't get that bit wrong :default_icon_cool:

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38 minutes ago, annv said:

Hi Karizma yes just get that but no semi synthetic or additives just plain 15w40 mineral from a reputable manufacturer no budget or Tesco finest. John

afirmative :91_thumbsup:

it's certainly not easy choosing a 'simple' mineral engine oil nowadays ..... all these different options!!!

thanks again, appreciate the advice from all.

after finally managing to visit Karizma yesterday (300 mile day trip!) it was great to be on board again, but I have many more questions, so more guidance requests from a newbie to come!

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5 hours ago, Karizma said:

 

it's certainly not easy choosing a 'simple' mineral engine oil nowadays ..... all these different options!!!

as a matter of interest what are the boater 'go to' mineral oil, there's not many to chose from (as most motor stores are selling 'part' or 'fully' synthetic oils)

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Hi Karizm I use Castrol inboard/outboard oil not cheap but my dip stick is still clear and shiny at the end of season it has a additive that clings the oil to the engine surfaces to stop corrosion while boat layed up, have used this sinc first first boat, John

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Modern car engines these days have catalysts recirculating exhaust gas valves along with very high engine revs and temperatures so need a synthetic oil, where as boat engines are low revving low temperature low stressed agricultural  based engines that are designed to run at low revs for long periods therefore need a GOOD quality straight oil , this still needs to be changed along with the filter every year as because it spends most of its time stopped and in a wet environment so they have to cope with a environment that they wasn't designed for. as with most engine oils, castrol was designed for boats only so can't be bought in car outlets only chandeliers. John

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2 hours ago, annv said:

Modern car engines these days have catalysts recirculating exhaust gas valves along with very high engine revs and temperatures so need a synthetic oil, where as boat engines are low revving low temperature low stressed agricultural  based engines that are designed to run at low revs for long periods therefore need a GOOD quality straight oil , this still needs to be changed along with the filter every year as because it spends most of its time stopped and in a wet environment so they have to cope with a environment that they wasn't designed for. as with most engine oils, castrol was designed for boats only so can't be bought in car outlets only chandeliers. John

thanks for the info / guidance John, appreciate it :91_thumbsup:

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The Perkins 4108 must have regular oil changes or the oil will sludge up.  They recommend every 100 hours but 150 will do.

The BMC goes a bit longer, 250 hours normally.

The Nanni or Beta will happily do 400 hours between changes.  Normally the filter is changed every second oil change.

Always change the oil in autumn before the winter as old diesel oil is mildly acidic and will eat away at the crankshaft journals if you leave it in the sump over winter.

Regular oil changes are very important for traditional engines such as Perkins and BMC.

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Thanks for the info Vaughan, we have a Nanni 4.190HF and the service schedule suggests 200 hours (or at least every 12 months).

Because we don't know the history of the engine (oil type used or frequency of change) I'll change the oil a couple of times this season and see how it looks then again just before winter storage.

Wish i'd have had the opportunity to change it before the winter lockdown.

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