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Winterising Again


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5 hours ago, Karizma said:

After a little investigating here's what I've found:

  • The Jabsco Shaft Seal has dimensions of 15x29x8mm (where as the one I took out is 16x28x7mm)
  • The diameter of the shaft (taken from the Jabsco schematic rather than measuring mine, which I should have done!) is 16mm - i.e 1mm larger than the Jabsco Shaft Seal dimension - Is this normal to make sure you get a good seal?
  • The one I'd put in before (and have just taken out) was 16x28x7mm - i.e the same size as the diameter of the shaft -  Could it be that the reason it had started leaking?

Well I think I've found the answer to my own question !

So for those that might have a Nanni 4.190HE engine and a pump similar to mine - I've just downloaded the Nanni 4.190HE catalogue and it quotes the raw water pump as a Johnson F5B-9 and when you search for a Shaft Seal for an F5B its dimensions are : Outer Diameter 28mm, Inner Diameter 15, Width 7mm

So thats why the outer diameter of the Jabsco shaft seal (29mm outer diameter) didn't fit the housing, and maybe why the seal I put in back in Feb 2022 started leaking after 400 taco hours (was 16mm internal diameter and should have been 15mm).

Not sure if a Johnson F5B-9 is an earlier version of the Jabsco 3270-271 raw water pump and thats why mine has a Jabsco cover plate?

At least I know what to order next time !!!! Hope this helps somebody else.

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11 hours ago, kpnut said:

Of course, when the boat comes out, Paul R at the yard will say ‘don’t worry, we’ll see to it’ but I want to do it myself to learn. 

It's best to know yourself and carry a spare so if you lose water flow out on the river you can check it and replace if needed on the spot, it's a quick routine job really.

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It seems that on the Broads, it is not so common to take boats out of the water over winter. However, the marina where I am moored on the RGO take out approx half the boat each year in November onto hardstanding for the winter, until March.

They offer various "winterisation packages" you can take. As I'm not so experienced in the engine department, I am getting them to do that side of things, but the general water drain down etc appears quite straight forward as a DIY job.

One of the things they do on the full package is to vacuum out the bilge, I guess with a wet/dry workshop vac. As I don't have one of those, I was looking at a small 12V submersible pump, with crocodile clips to the battery - there are loads you can get on Amazon. 

Do you think that clearing the bilge is necessary, and if so does anyone have any experience of these 12V pumps, as the reviews seem to be mixed.

12VWaterpump.jpg.d295506338fd45c0e2071f2055d1aeb0.jpg

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I have had a couple, the ones I had were aluminium bodied, and in my hot tub (chlorinated water) lasted just a month or two each, if you have a mains supply, a cheap pond pump works just as well. so brackish water would probably eat the aluminium too.

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I liked the idea of 12V, that could clip straight onto the battery and not need shore power or the inverter running. 

The other thought was having it as an emergency bilge pump - if I had a failure I could just drop it down and clear any excess water.

I do note they are rated at around 15 mins run time, then 15 mins cool down.

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Indeed it is, looking at it the impellor itself (under the 6 bolt cover) should run anti-clockwise as you look at it and the vanes will aim down on the right side and up on the left side when re-installing, if the back of the cover plate is badly worn you can fit it the other way round to give it a fresh flat surface to run against.

As long as access is good it really is a doddle of a job.

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My engine is a Nanni supplied by Peachment in Brundall. They are just a short way from my mooring so I will go and get a spare from them. My concern is that I have arthritis in my wrists and fingers and over the years I’ve lost a lot of strength in them. I’m not sure how much force is required for this job.
 

looking at this video

it seems there’s a good way to get the new one in but getting the old one out might be tricky.

Is it worth buying an impeller removal tool? Do they work well and if so is there one you’d recommend?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Completed ours earlier this week. Set and tested tube heaters, antifreeze into engine cooling system, drained water pump and domestic water system. I don't like doing these jobs as they mean we have to say farewell to the Broads for around 3 months. Still, as they say, absence makes the heart grow fonder and a few weeks hunkered down in front of our log-burner with Christmas in between isn't a bad thing.

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On 03/11/2023 at 11:37, marshman said:

French Marine in Brundall stock a lot of impellers, including Johnson ones, so if you are in the area pop in - always found them very helpful and for anyone's info,stock Perkins spares.

Ref impellors - Jabsco also make replacements for typical Volvo penta as well and are about a third of the price!

Just a few quick tips that I put together a few years ago - we pretty much keep using our boat and there has been some question over covering with a blanket or not, however, this may be helpful for some. It isn't a plug by the way as I do not monetise and on my current projection, that probably wont be possible for at least another 6 years :)

 

https://youtu.be/nRSZt-S2kOs

 

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Also, here is a little problem I had with one of my raw water pumps and impellors - I made a mistake in putting this back together in that I used both the O ring and the gasket as that was what was in there when I first changed it, however, i have since been informed that I should have used one or the other and not both!

 

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