DIY Anti Fouling - How Hard Can It Be ?

[Bikertov]

Famous last words, and I fully expect to be eating those words by the end of the weekend ...

So the time has arrived for me to actually do some real maintenance work on A Frayed Knot, rather then the tinkering and crude demolition that I have been doing thus far.

Trying to save a bit of money, weather permitting I am going to be doing my anti fouling tomorrow, rather than getting the boatyard to do it.

What they have done for me is to jet wash the hull in preparation, and this week they polished it too (the superstructure will be polished once back in the water)

Whilst I have painted rooms and woodwork at home in the past, obviously I  have never anti fouled a boat before - I just hope this will not be a big, costly mistake that I regret !

In preparation, I have bought a set of 9" and 4" rollers and an extension pole, some regular paint brushes, and a few rolls of masking tape. I also have some gloves, cloths, paper towel, white spirits and a small trestle/step  

The boatyard have recommended I use Seajet Hard Anti Foul 037, and it will be dark blue

The plan is to mask along the existing paint line, then get rolling. But surely there must be a method to it ?    

My thought was to start with the more inaccessible areas, such as in the bow thruster tunnel, underneath the keel and around the rudder, skeg and prop - using a brush and the small roller if needed. 

Of course making sure I don't paint over the shiny new anodes I fitted last week.

Then moving on with the large roller, starting low with the bottom of the keel and working my way upwards, so I don't bend down onto fresh paint. Then once up to eye / waterline level, carefully roller along the masking tape line. 

If I finish all that and it is not too late (or dark) I will give the front area and waterline another coat of paint.

Any thoughts and comments are welcome - including if you say "Don't do it, get the boatyard to ..."

[dom]

Sounds like you're fairly well set. Only other things I can think are to take a scraper/sanding material in case there's loose material on the previous coat which didn't come off with the perssure washer and to consider how to tackle the bits under where she's propped up.

[Smoggy]

It's not hard, a quick wire brush to shift any loose bits and slap it on with a long handled roller, start at the visible bits and work under and when you run out give up as you don't get that much on the river and if pressure washed as soon as it comes out if falls straight off (let it dry and its like concrete), it will only really make a difference to sailie boats and planing boats.

[Lulu]

Have no clue but good luck!  There’s mention about wearing a mask

 

[addicted]

Tony antifouled our boat  himself each year for many years until  he found an antifoul with  longer life and now  has it done every 3 years or so. Do exactly as  Smoggy says  and definitely wear a mask especially during the prep as it's reputed to be carcinogenic.

 

Carole

[Happy]

When we had our boats on the 'Broads' I used to get my mate Trev to lay under the boat and do the lowest bits.  That was his donation for comming on the boat whenever we went.  Apart from drinking that's all he ever did - reckoned it was his holiday! 

[MargeandParge]

Mix it well leccy drill slow speed with a home made whisk did ours and the small rollers are better than the big ones. Oh and don't wear your tuxedo. Goggles or safety glasses are a must for Parge.  Last time I did ours I got a tin of the chosen colour for the water line and 2 clearance tins of a different colour for the underneath. Only the fish used to pass comment but now you all know. The thing about it is if I farm the job out in the future I will know if they miss any 

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[Smoggy]

And if you get different colours don't forget to paint "other way up" or "help" on the bottom as none of us have ever done it before and it would be completely new.....

On great ouse at river speed it's mostly cosmetic so don't spend too many beer tokens on the job.

[Bikertov]

Thanks - some useful tips there, and a great video there Lulu, and it pushed a couple more goods ones that I watched too.

 

2 hours ago, dom said:

Sounds like you're fairly well set. Only other things I can think are to take a scraper/sanding material in case there's loose material on the previous coat which didn't come off with the perssure washer and to consider how to tackle the bits under where she's propped up.

I don't think much more prep is needed - the surface looks in reasonable condition, so I don't think much/any sanding needs to be done, but I will have a closer look in case. I will take a few sheets with me, and maybe my cordless sander too.

 

1 hour ago, MargeandParge said:

Mix it well leccy drill slow speed with a home made whisk did ours and the small rollers are better than the big ones. Oh and don't wear your tuxedo. Goggles or safety glasses are a must for Parge.  Last time I did ours I got a tin of the chosen colour for the water line and 2 clearance tins of a different colour for the underneath. Only the fish used to pass comment but now you all know. The thing about it is if I farm the job out in the future I will know if they miss any 

Great idea, although a bit late now for me to knock up a mixing attachment, but useful for "next time". Some strips of wood will have to do for tomorrow ! I've got some safety glasses and a hat, and a few pairs of latex gloves and builders gloves.

Luckily, my tux is at the dry cleaners, so old joggers and t-shirt will have to do. 

 

1 hour ago, addicted said:

Tony antifouled our boat  himself each year for many years until  he found an antifoul with  longer life and now  has it done every 3 years or so. Do exactly as  Smoggy says  and definitely wear a mask especially during the prep as it's reputed to be carcinogenic.

The "hard" antifoul they recommended should last 3 years, maybe more if it is clean on next lift out in 2 years time.

 

49 minutes ago, Smoggy said:

And if you get different colours don't forget to paint "other way up" or "help" on the bottom as none of us have ever done it before and it would be completely new.....

On great ouse at river speed it's mostly cosmetic so don't spend too many beer tokens on the job.

You've got me thinking now Smoggy ... tee hee hee

But yes, didn't want to pay the yard to do it as it was a few £100 on top of the paint, and I could put that towards something else

[JanetAnne]

A certain red headed young lady, known in certain circles for her love of the underneath areas of wooden boats, managed to dip her entire ponytail in a tub of black antifoul as she moved along the hull. Some of us still remember the scream... 

 

[Karizma]

When we did Karizma for the first time last year, we used a coat of underwater Primer (where needed if the antifouling had completely disappeared), then 2 coats of Hempel Broads on the underside of the hull and 2 coats of Hempel Boot Top Hard Racing Antifouling on the waterline.

We decided to leave the bow thruster ‘tube’ with primer only, as the Vetus bow thruster instructions state “……to prevent corrosion problems, do not use copper based anti-fouling” (because Hempel Broads is copper based) - might be worth a check what yours states?

Think you'll find it pretty easy to do (though your arms will hurt by the end of the day), but you will certainly save yourself a few quid for more important things - enjoy.

[BroadAmbition]

You are planning to use '034' for the entire hull?  That's gonna be expensive - but it'll certainly do the job, 034 being harder wearing than 037. 

We were advised to use '037' below the boot topping then '034' for the actual boot topping and have been doing so since 2007.

In our case every two years - Outa the oggin, jet wash, repair where necessary, underwater primer on the repairs (Two coats) then re-apply 037, two coats (Three on repaired areas) 034 applied to the boot topping.

With you going 034 throughout then you should be able to go much longer before having to do it again

When underneath 'B.A' rollering on anti-foul it's the only time I kinda wish that she was a lot less than 40ft

That aside, I always get a lot of satisfaction from carrying out and completing the finished job before she goes back into the oggin

Hope you do too - Enjoy

Griff

[Vaughan]

11 hours ago, Karizma said:

When we did Karizma for the first time last year, we used a coat of underwater Primer (where needed if the antifouling had completely disappeared),

 

11 hours ago, Karizma said:

“……to prevent corrosion problems, do not use copper based anti-fouling”

Just a couple of points here :

If there are areas of bare gelcoat, especially near the waterline if you have altered the height of the line, you must get a good "key" on the gelcoat, by sanding it with 100 grit or by applying a coat of GRP etching primer.  Preferably do both.  Antifoul will not stick to bare gelcoat.

Copper based antifoul can cause problems of galvanic corrosion to metal fittings, even on a GRP hull.  This is why Vetus don't want it near the thruster as it may corrode the bearings.  A lot of bow thrusters, especially hydraulic ones, have their own sacrificial anode, for this reason.

[Bikertov]

I'm back from St.Ives, and to answer my own question - it is bloomin hard work !

Now being that I'm a not the most energetic or high exercising person, I'm now aching all over and can hadldy move. REALLY not looking forward to tomorrow morning

But to answer the question in a slightly different way, it was not difficult to do, just very time consuming and uncomfortable being under the boat, stretching at odd angles  

[Bikertov]

So having spent the first hour of the day fitting a new bow thruster anode, I started the anti fouling job around 11:00 or so.

It took about an hour to mask up the paint line along the hull, trying to keep exactly to the existing line. I also masked over the 2 new anodes I fitted last week on the rudder and skeg, the under-hull earthing plate, the depth log sensor window, speed sensor wheel and the bow thruster prop and anode.

And then to start painting ...

The people on the boat next to me on the hardstanding kindly gave me a tin of primer they had finished with, as there were a few bare patches of gel coat by the bow thruster tunnel. Apart from that, there was no other preparation I felt needed doing.   

First to be painted then was the rudder and that area under the hull, then the skeg, and then the starboard side of the hull from the keel along then above, moving towards the bow. Mainly using a large 9" roller, but also a smaller 4" roller or brush to get into more difficult areas.

When I got to the bow, I started painting back towards the aft along the masking tape line with a brush, then using a small roller along the vertical part of the hull (being a displacement hull not a V-shape). I then finished the underside where I hadn't fully got the the edge.  I stopped at the corner of the transom, before starting the port side of the hull.

This had taken about 2 hours of painting so far, and the day was running out, but I was determined to finish it all today ...,

Moving onto the port side of the hull, I decided not to be so careful, and slap it on and speed up a bit more. Again, along the keel, then up to the underside of the hull, moving towards the bow. When I got to the bow, it was back along the masking tape line, and the vertical face of the hull, then the last of the underside as I moved back to the aft.

Finally, I finished of the lower part of the transom, and all the painting was finished.

Then the fun bit of ripping off the masking tape, to reveal a lovely clean, straight line of blue paint, and a newly anti fouled hull.

Ideally, I could have done with another hour of daylight, then I could have given the bow and the waterline a second coat. If the weather is OK next weekend, and there is time, I might mask up the hull again and give that second coat to the bow and waterline. If not, no big deal I don't think.

By the time I had cleaned myself up, put the tools away, binned the rollers, brushes and rubbish, it was nearly 5pm. So just did it in time before the sun started to go down 

[Bikertov]

What did I learn today, and what would I do differently next time ?

Firstly, don't be so worried about neatness and finish under the hull - as Marge and Parge said, no-one except the fish will see it !

Secondly, certainly for my hull shape, not being a V-shape, I would probably start from the bow and work back along the top line of paint and down the the corner when the hull shape goes flat under. That way, it would be dry enough for a second coat the same day for the bow and waterline. 

Then I would go underneath, again working from the keel upwards

Would I do it again myself ? Yes - it saved quite a lot of money, and was very rewarding to do when I stepped back and saw how much better the boat looked than when I started. 

[RumPunch]

On 02/03/2024 at 17:31, addicted said:

Tony antifouled our boat  himself each year for many years until  he found an antifoul with  longer life and now  has it done every 3 years or so. Do exactly as  Smoggy says  and definitely wear a mask especially during the prep as it's reputed to be carcinogenic.

 

Carole

Some things didn't get returned when I left the RAF !

[BroadAmbition]

Is that an 'S6' ?

I really wanted to hang onto mine but they (The RN) were most insistent I handed it back in when we said our goodbyes 

Griff

[Vaughan]

13 minutes ago, BroadAmbition said:

Is that an 'S6' ?

They are perfect for sanding, as they never mist up inside.  They also give perfect protection if you happen to get hit in the face by a flying angle grinder, as I did once!

I bought mine in a secondhand militaria shop in Hingham, complete with spare filters.

[RumPunch]

48 minutes ago, BroadAmbition said:

Is that an 'S6' ?

I really wanted to hang onto mine but they (The RN) were most insistent I handed it back in when we said our goodbyes 

Griff

S10 - they did get one back which is all that was on my card.

 

[marshman]

That why you never sand antifouling - use elbow grease and wet and dry! Thats safest!!!

Lots of people don't bother antifouling underneath on the Broads - in the past i have often antifouled down to around a metre from the waterline. You will always get zebra mussels but mostly just slime. Its not like in the sea where it grows proper stuff!!!!

 

[Bikertov]

On 03/03/2024 at 07:02, BroadAmbition said:

You are planning to use '034' for the entire hull?  That's gonna be expensive - but it'll certainly do the job, 034 being harder wearing than 037. 

I think you misread Griff - I used the 037, not 034

Probably over the top, but I didn't see the point in the softer stuff that was about the same price anyway (£80 a tin )

For the limited cruising I will do, and the lack rough water on the RGO, my though is that it will be good for 2 years, maybe even 3 ?

[Bikertov]

 

 

When the boat came out for winter, there was no real growth or fouling - the only issue was green algae.

I reckon she had been in for at least 2 or 3 years with soft anti foul, and when you look at pictures before the hull was jet washed, it is noticeably darker below the waterline.

I've seen it mentioned elsewhere that soft (self polishing) anti foul needs reasonable usage of the boat for it to work properly, otherwise there is no flow of water over the surface to activate the self polishing process. Realistically, I know my cruising usage will be limited for the first season or two.

Certainly for the RGO, I think now it has a good coating of the hard stuff, as well as new anodes, I may not need to take her out the water for 3 years if I so choose ? 

I will post "after" pictures when I am back there next weekend.

[dom]

Any signs of osmosis, either whilst you were doing this or during a survey?

With an older Broom, I'd probably have considered taking it out over the winter to mitigate osmosis issues, but I'm not sure if yours is new enough not to be too much of a concern for this?

Does Jones' yard charge a lot to lift and dry store? The way they do it, I'd assumed the cost would be fairly minimal, but some of what you've said suggests not.

[Bikertov]

The survey did note some small blisters and acceptable moisture readings, so nothing for me to be concerned about.

Probably a fair point you make about lifting it out over the winter to allow the hull to dry out, so maybe a 2-year cycle is better than leaving it in for 3 years.

Winter cranage was just under £500, and storage was just under £700, but I wonder if it is included in the annual mooring fee - I don't have a permanent mooring yet, so was not charged last year for the short period after I bought the boat before the winter lift-out, but will be from when it is back in.