Car Talk

[MargeandParge]

A pucker wooden dashboard too. If it clicks when you turn the ignition on and you have a spark at the points with the ignition on chances are it will go

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[YnysMon]

5 hours ago, annv said:

Hi If he intends to drive it in the rain it needs a 6inch square of ally clipped on the inside of the font grill in line with the distributor cap to stop water blowing onto the cap and shorting out the ignition. John

Graham has pointed out that we didn’t used to have any problems with this, and he last used the Wolsey on a daily commute down the M1 to Hemel and back. Harry has also commented that the ‘seals’ might not be as good as they used to be, so he might consider such a solution if he finds there’s a problem. 

[MargeandParge]

I've got a flap on don't put E10 petrol in it only E5 and it probably doesn't have an unleaded head. You used to be able to buy an additive that lubricated the valves and seats. 

Enjoy your motor kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[Turnoar]

Sound advice M&P, the additive is still available, saw someone pouring it into their jag mkII tanks the other day when filling up (with E5 of course, my wife stuck some e10 in her car the other day and it’s been a bit rough on start up since).

I am really enjoying this thread. Brings back memories as an infant of my dads Wolseley 1500 and Riley 1.5, think the Riley might have been twin carb but zero seatbelt. The engines outlived the chassis for sure! Later my brother had a few mini’s but he was also a hillman imp fanatic. The pinnacle was the Sunbeam Stilletto. It was Porsche’ish red, and the closest I’ve ever got to driving a Porsche: rear engine, fastback, his other car was a Hillman imp albeit saloon and laid up with rotten rear wings, no sticker to say ‘my other cars a hillman’ though!

My wife’s first car was a mini Piccadilly. Metallic gold, great for mascara of rust in the early stages I expect.

Good luck with the resto, trust the engine isn’t seized but if it is don’t despair, I found a trickle of diesel in the plug holes soon sorted a seized Volvo engine which had been standing in a boat for several years, full flush and service thereafter before starting of course.

Is the BMC badge engineering era responsible for the word ostentatious? I am joking, love the Hornet, Elf, Morris Mini Minor etc.

[MargeandParge]

We had some fun with these motors minis marinas escorts etc always after market bits Quintons Nuts {Hazel) if you were rich or Veco (Villans) if you were poor. The later could wear out while you were making sure they were good to fit.

I worked with a plasterers mate once who had a MK 2 Cortina new to him for a week MOT time a no go on rusty sills back to site very good tape applied to holes in sills drilled large holes in the tops filled with cerophite plaster a good coating of underseal 48 hrs later and it passed The whole site crew were amazed and he said I know I'll make a good spread (plasterer) as it's all down to knocking up the gear. 

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[grendel]

I did something similar once except I buried a big door hinge in the body filler (because they used to check with a magnet)

[floydraser]

15 hours ago, YnysMon said:

Graham has pointed out that we didn’t used to have any problems with this, and he last used the Wolsey on a daily commute down the M1 to Hemel and back. Harry has also commented that the ‘seals’ might not be as good as they used to be, so he might consider such a solution if he finds there’s a problem. 

Overtaking on a motorway in rain with a lot of spray about, suddenly you lose power and start dropping back.

An experience you don't want to encounter. 

[YnysMon]

8 hours ago, floydraser said:

Overtaking on a motorway in rain with a lot of spray about, suddenly you lose power and start dropping back.

An experience you don't want to encounter. 

Somehow I don’t think we’ll be overtaking anything! Not on a motorway anyway.

[MargeandParge]

20 minutes ago, YnysMon said:

Somehow I don’t think we’ll be overtaking anything! Not on a motorway anyway.

If you do a good job with the Wolsey and keep it as original as possible you will overtake a lot of car purchases others will make look after your car and have fun.

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[annv]

Hi Another thing i would advise is remove the bottom of the rear side pocket's(2 screws) lift out the cardboard liner then squirt some 3in1 oil around the inner sill, you should see the end of a bolt which holds the rear subframe mounting to the sill protruding through then dose/paint WaxOil librerley then replace liner. this is where they can rot out of site, a prevention is better than replacing the sill end. Also at the center of the front of rear subframe,where the brake pipe runs up the gap between body and frame wire brush and coat with grease, the pipe can burst under emergency braking if rusted badly out of site. John

[Happy]

On 20/06/2023 at 16:46, YnysMon said:

They managed to get it out!

I wonder why we had an old fender at the back of the garage? We've never had a boat.

That fender looks like the one I lost near Oulton Broad.  

[YnysMon]

Harry has been busy again. He started the day by taking half the carburettor apart and reassembled it to check the float bowl was okay. He’s siphoned the (30 year old) fuel out and took out the old full tank that had a lot of sludge in the bottom (having bought a replacement Riley Elf one on eBay), replaced the battery and battery terminals, and finally added an extra fuel filter just before the carburettor. 

[YnysMon]

On 23/06/2023 at 13:13, Happy said:

That fender looks like the one I lost near Oulton Broad.  

Have you replaced it? I have no idea where that fender originated. Given it was at the very back of our garage I suspect it predates our first visit to the Broads. 

[MargeandParge]

About that time of manufacture some were built with positive earth.

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[Happy]

11 hours ago, YnysMon said:

Have you replaced it? I have no idea where that fender originated. Given it was at the very back of our garage I suspect it predates our first visit to the Broads. 

  It was about 6 years ago!  Bought a replacement at the chandlers in Oulton Broad the same day..  Sold the boat about 4 years ago unfortunately.  Regards Alan

[annv]

Hi He may find if he removes the carb dash pot the brass needle will be verdgred and need GENTLY cleaning with a brillow pad or similar the inside and piston will also need cleaning/polishing this will make it run more smoothly also pull choke  out the run some 20/thin oil around the base of the carb then push and pull the choke in and out several times to lubricate and mostine  the cork washer that makes a petrol tight seal around the choke tube, also a couple squirts of 20 oil in the damper tube which is on he top of the dash pot. John

[YnysMon]

Harry tried to move the car this afternoon but couldn’t. It seems to be in gear, despite the gear stick being in neutral. Any suggestions from anyone? 

[MargeandParge]

Open the bonnet take the hand brake off make sure the gear stick is in neutral and rock the car forward and backwards vigorously while looking at the fan of it moves it is in gear if the car won't move it is possibly a brake problem. 

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[OldBerkshireBoy]

25 minutes ago, MargeandParge said:

Open the bonnet take the hand brake off make sure the gear stick is in neutral and rock the car forward and backwards vigorously while looking at the fan of it moves it is in gear if the car won't move it is possibly a brake problem. 

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

With respect M&P, YM that is release the handbrake whilst inside the car.

[MargeandParge]

8 minutes ago, OldBerkshireBoy said:

With respect M&P, YM that is release the handbrake whilst inside the car.

You are right but my arms have never stretched far enough to do otherwise 

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[grendel]

quite likely to be hand brakes rusted on, but did the wheels turn when you pushed it out of the garage? if they did its not the handbrake, although the gear lever may be in the neutral position, the gears may not have fully disengaged properly. also worth trying sitting in the car and depressing the clutch, if the car then moves, its something locked up in the drive train before the clutch

[MargeandParge]

Thought about that Grendel but clutch could have hydraulic problems I have even known them to push the thrust bearing through the pressure plate or be stuck to the flywheel that's why for a diagnosis the original question needs to be answered. I think. 

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[YnysMon]

Ooh, all this is beyond my (non) pay grade. Will report on to Harry. Sigh. 

[floydraser]

2 minutes ago, YnysMon said:

Ooh, all this is beyond my (non) pay grade. Will report on to Harry. Sigh. 

Yep, more info needed. Evidence in the last photos shows it in the yard with a brick by the wheel to stop it rolling away??

[annv]

Hi If it was parked with handbrake on its probably sized jack up each wheel in turn if wheel turns by hand it isn't sized when you get one that dosn't turn remove wheel undo the two Alan screws that hold the drum on then then back off the adjusters anti clockwise on right side and  clockwise on left side. if a front wheel with a hammer hit the drum all round while turning it. if a rear wheel remove screws and back off single adjuster anti clockwise then check the hand brake lever that sticks out of rear plate if stuck in the forwards position knock it to the rear. after wards all brakes will need derusting  cleaning greasing with copper slip and oiled to work freely on other joints. Also spray all bleed screws with penetrating oil. John