Someone to reupholster cabin headlining

[JawsOrca]

1 hour ago, tjg1677 said:

I paid a deposit to Creative 5 months ago to have a new canopy fitted over the upper helm, still have no idea when they will be doing it, communication is terrible and answers when you do get them are very vague, will update if I get anywhere with them but seriously tempted in the meantime to go elsewhere.....

trev.

I need to redo my parents covers, they haven't been made well and have been put on too tight.. I won't mention who done them originally..

55 minutes ago, Mowjo said:

Stuart! we've always used felt back carpet on all our boats with no problem, Chris is bringing you a sample to look at, it's just bog standard Carpet like you get from places like Carpetright, Chris and me have it on all out interior walls,,,

Does the felt not break down Frank? we use normal (van) sidelining carpet in work (and on my own boats), I do like foam backed vinyl the darker colour foam now lasts a lot longer although a trade secret is to use a separate scrim foam and then recover with a normal vinyl.. 

My boss swares by something called "Veltrim" I hate the stuff but some people like it.  Personally I now like suede.. it's on alot of sunseekers and just looks neat (but you need a boat with no leaks and no condensation issues.

[ranworthbreeze]

56 minutes ago, JawsOrca said:

Personally I now like suede.. it's on alot of sunseekers and just looks neat (but you need a boat with no leaks and no condensation issues.

Hi Alan,

That leaves 95% of the Broads boats out of the running then

Regards

Alan

[JawsOrca]

And most of the sunseekers too! Looks good for the first couple of years  

[ranworthbreeze]

1 minute ago, JawsOrca said:

And most of the sunseekers too! Looks good for the first couple of years  

Hi Alan,

I thought Sunseekers had a "Stop the Rain" button on the control panel

Regards

Alan

[Polly]

Hawke House Marine Fareham sell the right stuff, and the glues etc, They are willing to advise on the phone and have info. leaflets.

 

 

[ZimbiIV]

A boat that does not leak,                 

does not compute.

Not a vital problem as long as it is from above and not from below.

Stuart, look at a short pile bathroom carpet, should be a good thermal insulation as well.

paul

[tjg1677]

8 hours ago, JawsOrca said:

need to redo my parents covers, they haven't been made well and have been put on too tight.. I won't mention who done them originally..

Oh dear, now you have got me worried.  

[Wildfuzz]

http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/linings/self-adhesive-linings/p80-light-grey-self-adhesive-carpet-lining.html

 

This is the recommended stuff, self adhesive and just requires a little heat applied to the glue prior to fitting via heat gun. I have asked for a sample.........

[Mowjo]

17 hours ago, JawsOrca said:

I need to redo my parents covers, they haven't been made well and have been put on too tight.. I won't mention who done them originally..

Does the felt not break down Frank? we use normal (van) sidelining carpet in work (and on my own boats), I do like foam backed vinyl the darker colour foam now lasts a lot longer although a trade secret is to use a separate scrim foam and then recover with a normal vinyl.. 

My boss swares by something called "Veltrim" I hate the stuff but some people like it.  Personally I now like suede.. it's on alot of sunseekers and just looks neat (but you need a boat with no leaks and no condensation issues.

Felt back is about the only one that dosn't break down! Gel back, foam back even most of the ones sold for van lining do! if you look at the back of a lot sold for boat and van lining they look woven but you'll see they have a spray type glue on them, this go's hard and breaks down and the glue you stick them up with looses it's grip when it perishes, it may take a few years but it will loose it's grip, you can also use woven back carpet, trouble is it's pretty stiff and you need to use a trade adhesive, can't remember but I think it's Styccobond F3, a little tip for anyone doing cabin ceilings, especially onto bare GRP is don't use the normal carpet spray, use something like this stuff,   Heat Resistant Spray Glue    normal spray glue softens with the heat and can come unstuck,,

[JawsOrca]

Learn something

48 minutes ago, Mowjo said:

Felt back is about the only one that dosn't break down! Gel back, foam back even most of the ones sold for van lining do! if you look at the back of a lot sold for boat and van lining they look woven but you'll see they have a spray type glue on them, this go's hard and breaks down and the glue you stick them up with looses it's grip when it perishes, it may take a few years but it will loose it's grip, you can also use woven back carpet, trouble is it's pretty stiff and you need to use a trade adhesive, can't remember but I think it's Styccobond F3, a little tip for anyone doing cabin ceilings, especially onto bare GRP is don't use the normal carpet spray, use something like this stuff,   Heat Resistant Spray Glue    normal spray glue softens with the heat and can come unstuck,,

Learn something new everyday  

[Mowjo]

Alan! I used to be a carpet fitter way back with my son in law, we did all high class stuff, everything from Hotels, Boats, Casino's on piers, you name it we did it including quite a few celebs houses like George Michaels in Hampstead and Jeremy Beadles, I packed up when my knee went but the son in law carried on, now he's moved to Lowestoft he's done quite a few boats and a few for the place in Stalham, he's probably forgotten more than most carpet fitters know, the trouble is although it's fairly easy to do ceilings or walls, not many people think about the glue and just get basic DIY spray glue when you need high strength heat resistant stuff, normal will do the job and  most places that do the work will use it, but like any job you want to last you have to use the right stuff, I often use  domestic vinyl on toilet walls or anywhere it's likely to splash or get wet, but again you have to use the right adhesive not the DIY stuff,

[VetChugger]

If you were a carpet fitter I would have expected you to have encountered "Flotex". It was developed especially with water resistant properties. A lot was used in health centres and wards where I worked and it was certainly hard wearing and spills etc were readily wiped off. It was/is very flexible in all directions. I've seen it used to excellent effect in boats and even found it on either Sunseeker or Sealine at the Boat Shows in the past. Leo also found the "rip off" version and still uses it.

I know its not self adhesive but good for projects like this.

 

[Wildfuzz]

13 hours ago, VetChugger said:

If you were a carpet fitter I would have expected you to have encountered "Flotex". It was developed especially with water resistant properties. A lot was used in health centres and wards where I worked and it was certainly hard wearing and spills etc were readily wiped off. It was/is very flexible in all directions. I've seen it used to excellent effect in boats and even found it on either Sunseeker or Sealine at the Boat Shows in the past. Leo also found the "rip off" version and still uses it.

I know its not self adhesive but good for projects like this.

 

Would Flotex and similar vinyls not rap any moisture behind them with the GRP sweating or condensation as it is not permeable, whilst my cabin is to the best of my knowledge water tight there would be some condensation on over night trips with Mrs W.!!!!!

[Polly]

I have always found Hawke House to be helpful and informative, you could ring them Stuart.

[Mowjo]

Vet! Stuart is asking about walls and the roof lining,   if he was talking floors then Flotex is brilliant it last for years and you can even jet wash it! but it's expensive and as it has a rubber backing you can't stretch to shape around walls like the bunk sides, I've used it quite a bit over the years usually in reception areas because it's hard wearing, one problem with it is waste, it only comes 2mtrs wide so if your floor is 4mtrs long you either have to buy 2mtrs cut it down to the width of the boat and have a join in it! or buy 4mtrs for no join and waste a lot, the tiles are good but the problem is getting hold of individual tiles as most places only sell them by the box, even when I was a fitter we had trouble getting hold of them, I think the last lot I bought was over £70 a box of 12, to be honest I don't know why people use expensive carpet on boat floors, all I ever do is buy off cuts or basic carpet for the floor then change it every couple of years, if you want good quality carpet, have it cut to size and shape, then take it to somewhere like Stalham carpets and have it edge bound, that way you can take it up and clean it with a carpet shampooer or that  stuff they advertise on the TV, Like everything to do with boats, they say you must use this, you really don't have to most of it is just re-branded as marine and double the price,

 

[Wildfuzz]

1 hour ago, Polly said:

I have always found Hawke House to be helpful and informative, you could ring them Stuart.

Yes I have and they were excellent, hopefully some samples are on the way...

[Wildfuzz]

Well its done at last and very nice it is to. I used a contact obtained via this Forum (Thanks Frank) and had our little cabin done in a very fetching Pearl carpet roof and sides. It was a fiddly job as most are but the result is a real transformation. Just a good hoover and the trims replaced and will be better than new.

 

Mrs W. will be very happy when she descends below deck now!

[Polly]

I think, heads apart, this is the worst cabin type job on a boat, glad you got a good result Stuart.

[addicted]

 A good few years ago when we were on the Great Ouse, we ordered a new canopy for our Fairline Mirage  from a Norfolk based  company who shall remain nameless. We paid a sizeable deposit and heard no more for quite long time, then someone came who made a  pattern canopy out of polythene in the usual way, a few days after which we received an invoice for the full amount. By this time we were well past the promised completion date so we phoned to ask what was going on and why they were asking for payment in full when we hadn't even seen the canopy . There was no one answering the phone so we were obliged to leave a  message on the ansaphone. We did this about 6 or 7 times never receiving  a call back however we did receive plenty of full payment demands. One morning my husband opened yet another of these demands, after which I phoned the company again and left the following message " If this message is ignored as all the others have been, my husband will climb into his car and drive to your factory to make his opinion of your performance thus far known to you personally, trust  me you do not  want this to happen" We received a call back within 2 minutes. We eventually got the canopy which was o.k. but I would never recommend the company involved for all sorts of reasons,

 

Carole

[LondonRascal]

Some months back I was looking at how one may be able to add discreet lighting and blown air ventilation throughout a boat using the small void between cabin top and head liner and it was only when I got looking at coach and bus building techniques things began to make sense.  They too have to hide the interior structure, wires and the like but they don’t try and it up with fake leather look vinyl – it is all screw less entry and drop down hinged panels and this often also hides discreet, flat but wide ducting for the ventilation system. 

So, if I was going about re-doing a headlining of a boat and had to cover a wide area, like a Saloon, then I would use Faux Suede it looks so much nicer than Vinyl but have such treated with a mold inhibitor just to be on the safe side. I also like the idea of having some contrasted Velvet for a rich warmth in some areas, even if the same colour as the Faux Suede its texture and look can add something more.

I’d use plywood as a base for the panels, then to this would be added a foam cover -similar in type to the camping mats you can get – it does not break down, will not rot and performs well with 3M Scotch-Weld 90 adhesive.  The material would be likewise bonded but with 3M Scotch-Weld 77 adhesive. Each panel would then connect to a central ‘spine’ which ran down the centre of the saloon fore and aft which would be where each panel was fixed to using a piano hinge – it may also be possible to use a small gas strut for each panel to cause them to lower in a slow and controlled fashion. 

The central ‘spine’ would be covered with a hard wood facing trim – itself about 10mm proud of the surrounding panels, then LED tape lights would be fixed to this underside of this and hidden.  

Next to hide the joins between each panel (laterally as they come from the central spine) I’d use etched, clear Makrolon (Polycarbonate) which would be bonded onto each hardwood trim piece with clear 3M VHB tape. The Makrolon would be 2mm wider than the wood trim pieces.  This would mean that the LED tape’s light output along the central spine would also radiate along the edges of the hardwood trim in an even, defused manner. 

The other end of the panel would be held in place a fitting much the same as a locking cabinet fastener, press in to lock then to unlock press in again – a magnet then holds the panel from falling along with the resistance of the gas strut if used preventing the panel from just free-falling down.  By using this method, it makes access to any wiring, lighting very easy and simple – even down to panel removal for re-covering with new material as styles change. 

Depending on the boat, there may also be space under the panels to use Celotex insulation cut to size, bonded in place and then sealed with silicone around their edges to prevent any moisture (air) getting between them and the actual cabin top they were insulating. 

The above method could work in any cabin so long as there was the ability to have a straight, central mount that the panels would connect to and be hinged from. I’ve not cracked the central air distribution just yet, but I’ve got some good ideas on this.

[Wildfuzz]

25 minutes ago, LondonRascal said:

Some months back I was looking at how one may be able to add discreet lighting and blown air ventilation throughout a boat using the small void between cabin top and head liner and it was only when I got looking at coach and bus building techniques things began to make sense.  They too have to hide the interior structure, wires and the like but they don’t try and it up with fake leather look vinyl – it is all screw less entry and drop down hinged panels and this often also hides discreet, flat but wide ducting for the ventilation system. 

So, if I was going about re-doing a headlining of a boat and had to cover a wide area, like a Saloon, then I would use Faux Suede it looks so much nicer than Vinyl but have such treated with a mold inhibitor just to be on the safe side. I also like the idea of having some contrasted Velvet for a rich warmth in some areas, even if the same colour as the Faux Suede its texture and look can add something more.

I’d use plywood as a base for the panels, then to this would be added a foam cover -similar in type to the camping mats you can get – it does not break down, will not rot and performs well with 3M Scotch-Weld 90 adhesive.  The material would be likewise bonded but with 3M Scotch-Weld 77 adhesive. Each panel would then connect to a central ‘spine’ which ran down the centre of the saloon fore and aft which would be where each panel was fixed to using a piano hinge – it may also be possible to use a small gas strut for each panel to cause them to lower in a slow and controlled fashion. 

The central ‘spine’ would be covered with a hard wood facing trim – itself about 10mm proud of the surrounding panels, then LED tape lights would be fixed to this underside of this and hidden.  

Next to hide the joins between each panel (laterally as they come from the central spine) I’d use etched, clear Makrolon (Polycarbonate) which would be bonded onto each hardwood trim piece with clear 3M VHB tape. The Makrolon would be 2mm wider than the wood trim pieces.  This would mean that the LED tape’s light output along the central spine would also radiate along the edges of the hardwood trim in an even, defused manner. 

The other end of the panel would be held in place a fitting much the same as a locking cabinet fastener, press in to lock then to unlock press in again – a magnet then holds the panel from falling along with the resistance of the gas strut if used preventing the panel from just free-falling down.  By using this method, it makes access to any wiring, lighting very easy and simple – even down to panel removal for re-covering with new material as styles change. 

Depending on the boat, there may also be space under the panels to use Celotex insulation cut to size, bonded in place and then sealed with silicone around their edges to prevent any moisture (air) getting between them and the actual cabin top they were insulating. 

The above method could work in any cabin so long as there was the ability to have a straight, central mount that the panels would connect to and be hinged from. I’ve not cracked the central air distribution just yet, but I’ve got some good ideas on this.

 

He`s in the wrong job, should be a boat designer.

[LondonRascal]

1 hour ago, Wildfuzz said:

He`s in the wrong job, should be a boat designer.

My idea above is fine for the person who has a lot of time and can concentrate on each and every part to be as perfect as possible. I follow someone who is working on their boat project and between each sanding and re-coat of paint re-masks the entire area with tape in order that the line between varnished wood and painted area is as sharp as can be with no ridge. 

The fact is, a boat manufacture works on the principal of making money, so that level of design and man hours to install would not be workable so far as the bottom line is concerned.

Since we don't live in San Francisco you can't really do something like Elon Musk (Tesla/Space X) and come up with an idea, convince investors in it and worry about making a profit sometime in the future - should it all go to plan.

[VetChugger]

How long have you had this obsession with living in an "Arabian Nights" themed boat of ill repute???

 

[LondonRascal]

Yes, it does all rather sound like I want a boat with a 'red light' on in the cabin and a neon sign outside saying 'MODEL'.

But actually, I am talking about creams, whites, and tonal differences between then using colour through lighting to change the ambience. 

I've also seen some lovely use  acrylic commercial buildings and as a structural medium which I like the idea of using as bulkheads to distinguish an area rather than formally separate it - and of course, be edge lit. You might do this if you wished to use a former cabin as den or secondary saloon area, perhaps as a space for watching films, or office area.

[Wildfuzz]

14 hours ago, LondonRascal said:

Yes, it does all rather sound like I want a boat with a 'red light' on in the cabin and a neon sign outside saying 'MODEL'.

But actually, I am talking about creams, whites, and tonal differences between then using colour through lighting to change the ambience. 

I've also seen some lovely use  acrylic commercial buildings and as a structural medium which I like the idea of using as bulkheads to distinguish an area rather than formally separate it - and of course, be edge lit. You might do this if you wished to use a former cabin as den or secondary saloon area, perhaps as a space for watching films, or office area.

Now you have Mrs W. interested, ambience, theme lighting..... All I wanted was some carpet. Guess I better look at some LED lighting!