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Not sure if this is still available or good for fiberglass or even the environment, but when I was still at school on Saturday morning I used to work at Burgh Castle Yacht Station and one of my jobs was to get in a dingy and scrub the waterlines with Vim, done a real good job.

Do you realise that post was sensible god whats happening :wave

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Friday Girl comes out next week and I've noticed a lot of lime scale around the waterline. I seem to remember that Jon said that he uses Cillit  Bang .

Does anyone else have any suggestions,  including scrapers?

 

If it's original unpainted gelcoat, then normal solvents or abrasive cleaners are not the best answer.

Waterline stains on bare gelcoat are actually just below the surface of the gelcoat, so you need a specialist product that dissolves them without damaging the surface.

A jelly-like substance called "Y10" is specifically made for that purpose on boats, (containing oxalic acid, I believe).

http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/shop-online/original-fibreglass-stain-remover-p-9415.html

It's always worked perfectly for me, but you must allow it time to soak in, something that many users don't bother to read in the instructions.

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John, I happily use the stiff on unpainted GRP. I really don't like the grossly inflated prices of specialist products that do the job no better than a non chandlery product. I was first recommended it by a boatyard and since heard that many others also use it without problem. Make sure that you have your Marigolds on.

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If you want to use something to clean waterline while in the water then a product called 'Phos' works well. Supplied by Hugh Crane at Acle and biodegradeable. Just put some in a bucket and dilute 50-50 then brush on to waterline. Leave about 5 minutes and brush off and rinse. Tried and tested method but not written in product instructions! :Sailing

Hope that helps

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People down here use acetone on gel coat just above the antifoul line. I know I was shocked too but it's quite common to use apparently.. Seemed to work.. but can't say I'll recommend it and won't have the guts to use myself!

Can't see how acetone will work on scaling. Grease, oil definitely, and I use it myself, but limescale needs an acid.

Simple chemistry.

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I read oxalic acid worked fine, but didn't stay on the surface long enough, so it was suggested that you mix it with cheap wall paper paste without algicides etc to make an oxalic gel, and use a paint roller. 

Not used it yet, but you won't use much. We did use a product called Chineshine, which worked very well, as it contained oxalic acid too, and something to make it into a gel and I still have some left. I will certainly recommend Chineshine, but is expensive, but is ready to use straight out of the bottle. if you use a roller or a paint pad, on the brown areas above the waterline, a few seconds after applying the chineshine, and the gelcoat was back to it's original colour, leave a while and wash off, perfect.

Chineshine was featured in Practical Boat Owner a few years back, with good reviews.

I wonder how different Chineshine is, compared to oxalic acid mixed with wall paper paste? 

Is a starch based wallpaper paste without algicide, a bio degradable product? I do consider the environment.

Edited by Viking23
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With reference to acetone, this is a solvent used to clean equipment after applying various resins, so spray guns, pipe lines and containers,  mixers  etc. It is a very aggressive solvent with plastics.

So I don't know what the long term affect of acetone is on cured GRP.

If you wipe a clear acetate surface, like a plastic clock face with acetone, it will attack the surface and it will become opaque. Don't ask how I know lol... doh..

DO NOT USE it on plastic car headlights etc...

 

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I get a 5L container of lime scale remover for work – it is Phosphoric Acid.  It is WONDERFUL.

Not only will it within seconds completely remove 100% of limescale from a kettle, it works wonders on anything that has any form of water scale or marks around taps, toilets and sinks too. You can use it through water pipes to remove scale build up within them - anywhere water causes marks or scale it will banish them.

But it also is good at removing any rust deposits! Get aluminum window frames back to their original look, stainless steel gleaming and small rusty marks will wipe away.  You might have read how Coca Cola is so evil it can remove rust and how it can make a penny shiny – it is because it contains phosphoric acid.

I also mix up dilute amounts to remove scale from fenders which brings them up looking like new when used with a good scotchbrite pad then treat the fenders with a good quality vinyl polish.

This is not the same brand as I buy but is available though Amazon with free delivery:

Link: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004027L7O 

 

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I suggested Y10 in my previous post because it is oxalic acid in a gel form, so that it will stay on a vertical surface.

I reiterate, It was specifically formulated to remove waterline stains from GRP boats.

Other forms of acids will work, but they are much less viscous, so will run down into the water before the acidic action can clean away the stain, (so you end up using far more than is needed).

Acetone (nail varnish remover) is a very useful cleaning solvent, but it will indeed melt many plastics.

As for using it on GRP, that is a hotly contested argument, with users having diametrically opposing views and experience !

There's been many an argument about it on the YBW specialist boating forums, such as http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-85303.html

I've used it very sparingly with care to clean stubborn fibreglass stains (like dried varnish drips), but it won't remove waterline stains because they are not on the surface of the gelcoat, (that's why you need an acid, like Y10).

Lastly, you need to be very careful with your skin when using Acetone, as it can permeate into your bloodstream.

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I've used it very sparingly with care to clean stubborn fibreglass stains (like dried varnish drips), but it won't remove waterline stains because they are not on the surface of the gelcoat, (that's why you need an acid, like Y10).

They do use it to remove the orange waterline stain and apparently it's they only thing that removes it. Although the medway here is very muddy and suffers from serious (and strange) fouling. Put we've never used as such and now hearing about problems with bloodstream and kidneys etc it's not something I will be using. cheers 

Interesting topic though ;) 

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A note on Acetone and getting in the bloodstream:

Acetone poisoning occurs when the amount of acetone in the body is more than what the liver is able to break down.

Acetone is a clear liquid that smells like nail polish remover. When exposed to the air, it quickly evaporates and remains highly flammable, making acetone dangerous to use around an open flame. Hundreds of household products contain acetone, including furniture polish, rubbing alcohol, and nail polish.

Despite its presence in hundreds of common products, the incidence of acetone poisoning is very low. The body is able to handle up to 200ml without serious consequences.

This is because the liver is able to take acetone and break it down into chemicals usable by the body.

The source of the acetone is not always external. Your body produces acetone when it breaks down fat, so you will have more acetone in your body when you are on a low-fat diet.

Acetone poisoning can be caused by metabolic diseases, starvation, or chemical overexposure. The symptoms of acetone poisoning include headaches, dizziness, and, in rare cases, death. If acetone has been swallowed, stomach pumping may be used as a treatment. In other cases, oral breathing treatment will clear the acetone from the blood through the lungs.

Source

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There was a product that everyone used to rave about on here called EVM. Brian Ward used to sell it and it really worked. The company that produced it used to be members on here and also provided a discount for members. I remember meeting up with them one time when they delivered 5L to me at The Bridge at Acle. I think they lived somewhere near Reedham. Anyone know if it is still available? It was more of an all purpose GRP cleaner but was excellent on most stains including rust.

For the waterline a Norfolk boat builders recommended Harpic Plus. The gel is good because it holds it in place till you wash it off. Off all the things I was trying at the time, it was the only one that worked.

 

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With reference to acetone, this is a solvent used to clean equipment after applying various resins, so spray guns, pipe lines and containers,  mixers  etc. It is a very aggressive solvent with plastics.

So I don't know what the long term affect of acetone is on cured GRP.

If you wipe a clear acetate surface, like a plastic clock face with acetone, it will attack the surface and it will become opaque. Don't ask how I know lol... doh..

DO NOT USE it on plastic car headlights etc...

 

The bees knees for plastic headlights is toothpaste, it is only very mildly abrasive and makes a great job

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There was a product that everyone used to rave about on here called EVM. Brian Ward used to sell it and it really worked. The company that produced it used to be members on here and also provided a discount for members. I remember meeting up with them one time when they delivered 5L to me at The Bridge at Acle. I think they lived somewhere near Reedham. Anyone know if it is still available? It was more of an all purpose GRP cleaner but was excellent on most stains including rust.

For the waterline a Norfolk boat builders recommended Harpic Plus. The gel is good because it holds it in place till you wash it off. Off all the things I was trying at the time, it was the only one that worked.

 

EVM was was brilliant, i raved about it, not been available for years, i think the company that did it went bust.

think it was called Cormorant trading.

wow just found this while typing.

http://www.ctlonline.co.uk/

 

 

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