grendel Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 so several days since the last update, i have been busy, tidying the workshop, meanwhile paint was drying out, now stuck because the next part i wanted to do that could be done while paint was doing its thing on the hull of the model, suddenly became an issue where my 0.2mm stainless steel was too thick, i have ordered more in 0.1mm .05mm and .02mm, but its a long delivery item, so today the model was back in the garden receiving another few coats of white to the hull. i am happy to report that the problem paint spots we had are now disappearing into the paint layers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadAmbition Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 so several days since the last update, Really? - Hadn't noticed I am happy to report that the problem paint spots we had are now disappearing into the paint layers. Grendel - That bit of news, welcome as it is, is no use to man nor beast whatsoever without the obligatory photo! And well you know it Griff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 I will get photos later. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 still there is nothing like watching paint dry as they say, and theres not a lot to see when its all white, i reckon this coat needs another week drying then lightly flatting back again before getting a tad more paint - or as i have since found this stuff is not a paint at all its a coloured resin lacquer, which is why we had paint mismatch issues, as i tried to overspray when it was still curing (properly it has a full two week hardening time, but between coats of the same stuff it can manage as little as 5 minutes, so once this has all been finished the below waterline and boot topping will be left a good amount of time to allow this resin lacquer to properly harden, after which it should be good to go. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadAmbition Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 Now that's a proper brilliant white, Griff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 so white in the sunshine it was hard to get any detail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MauriceMynah Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 Wow, that's bright! It reminds me a bit of Nyx. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 what, nyx the day you bought her? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 I have tried to show some of the worst bits left, these will get a light rubbing down again and a few more coats of paint should sort it, providing of course the pictures show it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 after a bit of a rethink, i spent an hour this evening running down through the different grades of wet and dry paper, 400, 600, 800, 1500, much happier with how smooth the finish is on the one side i have done, tomorrow i will have a go at the other side. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 the second side has been given a similar treatment, as well as the bottom both sides, though as that is underwater a bit more leeway is allowed there, plus it will be having additional coats of antifoul paint. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 today, both sides of the model have had a light dusting of paint, just to cover where I went through the white, i have found light dustings arent as prone to paint mismatch 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 slowly getting back there with the white paint, to try and avoid runs i am trying to get it near horizontal when spraying, another couple of light coats 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 so continuing applications of paint, the hull is probably 0.5mm thicker now through paint, about a week ago i carefully sprayed up a board, this was specifically to test paint that would be going over the white, this will just be applied with a brush, so what do we have, well on the real boat there is antifoul in red and a blue boot topping, getting the exact colours wont be easy, i had throught to try a red oxide primer, that had reacted badly to the white paint, modelling acrylics are a possibility, however the red oxide primer i had tried was acrylic. Actually these paints were my backup option, so after a lot of shaking to get the pigments mixed back into the paints, i got the two pots of paint that Charlie had supplied me last year out and ready for testing. these are exactly the correct colours as they are from the tins that were used the last time Broad Ambition came out of the water, it is actual antifoul and actual boot topping, so these have been painted on the paint that was sprayed onto the test board, to ensure there are no adverse reactions. how soon these are applied to the model is unknown at the moment, i will need to ascertain the water level to work out where the boot topping will need to be, but i may be able to work out the top line of the antifoul before that and get that applied. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 Actually, not only has this paint dried quickly, there looks to be no reaction to the white, which is great news. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadAmbition Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 At last I can help out for a change. You are correct of course that I supplied genuine anti-foul and boot topping as used on 'B.A' and it is fast drying too Water level mark. You remember model #1, when you trialled it the blue boot topping was too low? We also discussed that exactly the same thing happened with the full size version - which is an amazing occurrence and just goes to show how accurate your scale work is. Anyroadup, we had to raise the top line of the boot topping next time we had her out of the water. I would offer, have a look-see at model #1 then transfer the line measurement over to model #2 but add on 10mm to the top of the boot topping line - Bobs your Uncles brother, Fanny is your Aunt. Simples Griff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 2, 2020 Author Share Posted May 2, 2020 that will probably be where i end up Griff, if its too high i can always add ballast, but losing weight will always be a tricky option. how many inches did you raise your boot topping Griff, to get the line i will measure at the bow and stern (and compare to the photographs) to get a front and rear position, then its just a matter of using a laser level to transfer the line straight along the hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Upcycler Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 I'm still trying to work out if it was quicker to make/build BA for real or the model! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 2, 2020 Author Share Posted May 2, 2020 It was undoubtedly easier as everything was bigger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadAmbition Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 how many inches did you raise your boot topping Griff, Now you're asking. From memory I think about 50mm or two inches in real money to get the line I will measure at the bow and stern (and compare to the photographs) to get a front and rear position, then its just a matter of using a laser level to transfer the line straight along the hull. We did the same, used a laser level to give us a red line then marked the line. It was a fair amount of faffing about before I was happy with it Griff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadAmbition Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 I'm still trying to work out if it was quicker to make/build BA for real or the model It was undoubtedly easier as everything was bigger You think? You haven't got to strip it down in the first place! 'It would have been easier / quicker to build a new one' This was often said by our restoration crew and also by many proper boat builders. Reasoning being we had first to strip / clean / expose just what we had to work with and bringing issues to the fore so to be seen clearly. Then sympathetically removing, reproducing and replacing, effectively doing the job twice, then on top of that were the numerous times, especially in the earlier years where we got it wrong or were just not happy with the results. This resulted in doing it again. Or 'Learn by do method'. Then there were many jobs that took two or even three guys working all at the same time just to complete one issue. One example was the top plank on the hull. Due to many years of it having repaired (bodged) it had to be removed from both Port and Stbd sides in its entirety. The man hours just to remove it and get the corroded mild steel screws out, in some cases the original screws that had bee cherry heated then plunged in oil. it took forever, only way was to chisel timber away then wind them out with vice grips and when they snapped off Arrgghh No such issues on the model like that. Putting in new planks - Three guys, steaming the teak, then holding / clamping / fastening, some with gloves on to stop their hands getting blistered all at the same time whilst working against the clock before the teak when cold / hard. BUT - So satisfying on completion. Now compare that to fastening on a new plank onto new ribs on the model and that's just one example It took our crew of about 25-ish lads on and off over the five n half years 8'500 man hours to restore her to a standard just to get her back in the water. It won't be happening anytime soon again that's for sure Griff 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Well today i was finally happy with the finish, so today the masking tape came off, then it was cleaning the sticky residue from the tape off the lovely varnished stern, this was achieved with a citrus oil cleaner that removed the sticky without affecting the varnish. next to clean up the rest of the model where the paint in the air has powdered down, sometimes a stiff brush can sort this out, but we will see. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 So here are some pictures, i have tested the overspray on the cabin sides and it is responding with a light application of 800 grade wet and dry, which is needed anyway before the final varnishing of the cabin sides, also getting the rudder and skeg back in place. tomorrow, as the last day of furlough i guess will be spent cleaning the paint and overspray up and getting the running gear back as it should be. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 She looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 the slight places on the rear corners where the paint has crept under the masking tape will be covered with the stainless steel strip, as per the real thing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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