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Broad Ambition - The Model


grendel

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So not able to just sit around doing nothing today, i went out to work on the model, fitting the rubbing strakes is my goal, hmm, after trying with my 2 deepest clamps i have found a problem, clamping these down. ok so i need some deeper clamps, i could 3d print some, but i dont know if they will be strong enough, wooden clamps, yes thats doable, i have some wooden threaded rod handy, so i have set about making some rough and ready clamps.

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well, the wooden clamps were no better than the others i had, so with two of those and one wood clamp the rubbing strip was clamped in place, it was then drilled for a tight fit on a 0.8mm stainless pin (a 0.7mm drilled hole through wood is perfect, ) then once the pins were in, they held it in place, the wood was eased up 1/4" off the surface, glue applied, then reseated, the backs of the pins were bent over to stop them pulling through, the only place a clamp was required was to hold the front (at the point of most twist) next job, to get the other side matching perfectly.

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42 minutes ago, WherryNice said:

Of course strictly speaking model hull number one should be used to make a mould to create subsequent  GRP versions.....:default_biggrin:

Ah but! Going on your thinking No2 should be GRP

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so as it was getting dark, and i had a general idea where the boot topping and antifoul lines were going to be from model #1 i fired up the laser level and ran the lines down one side of the model, marking light pencil marks to show the line.

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12 hours ago, grendel said:

thats why i built model #1 but i am now starting to get to areas not covered on model #1 yet.

i have next to figure how to clamp the ends of the stern rubbing rail

Hello Grendel,

Cut a V out of a block to match the bow,; you can then use sash clamps for holding the stern rubbing rail.

Regards

Alan

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I think I may have found a solution, luckily I made the rails overlap the stern, though I could wish I had left one a bit longer, so I added a block to that excess rail, spaced so it will trap the ends of the stern rubbing rail, this will be trimmed off once the rail is glued.

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On 04/05/2020 at 20:07, grendel said:

the slight places on the rear corners where the paint has crept under the masking tape will be covered with the stainless steel strip, as per the real thing.

having looked at those more carefully, the majority were where i hadnt fully removed the masking tape.

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last night i made a start on the antifoul, i really do need to practice following lines, its not too bad, but could be better, i have an idea how to improve for when i do the boot topping as really you need a ruler, but of course you cant use a ruler with a paintbrush, but i have worked out a method, you can see here that one half of the hull got a coat of paint last night, so this afternoon after work, the other side was painted and the first half got its second coat, which gives a far better coverage over the white.

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15 minutes ago, grendel said:

last night i made a start on the antifoul, i really do need to practice following lines, its not too bad, but could be better, i have an idea how to improve for when i do the boot topping as really you need a ruler, but of course you cant use a ruler with a paintbrush, but i have worked out a method, you can see here that one half of the hull got a coat of paint last night, so this afternoon after work, the other side was painted and the first half got its second coat, which gives a far better coverage over the white.

Try 3mm fine masking tape easier to get the line then mask over the top of that. used to use it years ago when putting pin stripes on cars

 

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Nigel, i seem to have even less luck getting a good line using masking tape, the paint will either run under the tape, or when i lift the tape it leaves a hard edge to the line like a step. i tried using tape on model #1 and wasnt entirely happy, but i have figured how to get a steady rest or straight edge thats not in the way at paint level, so i will give that a try.

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32 minutes ago, grendel said:

Nigel, i seem to have even less luck getting a good line using masking tape, the paint will either run under the tape, or when i lift the tape it leaves a hard edge to the line like a step. i tried using tape on model #1 and wasnt entirely happy, but i have figured how to get a steady rest or straight edge thats not in the way at paint level, so i will give that a try.

The new 3m stuff sticks like the proverbial no paint creep. But peels off nicely and only 3mm contours and straight lines too

 

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