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Time To Worry The Diyers


MauriceMynah

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Go on then, I'll bite

All marine plywood has to carry BS1088 on its edge and most builders merchants carry stock of this although the quality varies considerably.

Real marine plywood also has 'lloyds approved' next to the BS1088 and is about 4 times the price.

If it helps Ridgeons have a pretty decent quality 1088 marine ply in stock. Don't go to Wickes! 

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1.Is Tim Collins at Wroxham still around?

2. Ask Richardsons where they get it!

3. WBP or whatever it is called (Water and Boil Proof is it?)

Nothing wrong with the latter - think you can even get it faced too. If not just buy the thinnest faced ply and stick it to the wbp ply - works a treat

Whatever you do, DON'T pay for marine ply when you will not be able to tell the difference - it actually has larger voids I believe on some of the inner layers but I never noticed! It will not delaminate - the glue is the same!!

I expect the purists will disagree but it worked for me at a fraction of the cost

 

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My understanding is that originally marine ply had better, waterproof resin than ordinary ply until it became economical to use the better resin for all. Then it came down to the voids where marine ply isn't supposed top have any.

As Griff says go for exterior grade but I would add, try and stay clear of B&Q or Wickes. I used some B&Q ply, sealed it with all sorts and it lasted less than 6 months before delaminating. I reckon it was damp and I just sealed it in!

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Ok, Thanks peeps, I shall steer clear of Wickes and B&Q, but you say Travis Perkins is ok. Yes?

I had some vague memory that marine ply had more laminates than the corresponding thickness of WBP. Was I wrong?

I reckon 12mm will suffice for most of what I have in mind, I shall compare it to the ply already used on the boat. It is so difficult working on what I plan to do when I can't get there to measure the space available.1951292623_NewNyxA.jpg.84355cb2194f29df0363b34aa83443b5.jpg

One idea I have rather depends on the size of the cabin with twin beds opposite the galley. I'm wondering if there's room to have just one, slightly wider bunk turned 90 degrees so it runs fore to aft. That is going to be my cabin.

Idea No 2, is to remove the wardrobe and basin in the stern saloon and replace them with either a fitted sideboard, or a bench seat, also possibly extend the seats of the dinette up to the doors.

Finally (for now) the forward cabin. Remove the wardrobe, move single port bunk towards the aft over where the wardrobe was, then extend the width of the starboard bunk to be a double.

And finally finally, I'm going to need steps in the cockpit, port side (possibly mirroring the starboard side) to aid solo mooring.

Those are some of the ideas I have but, as Mr Morecombe would have said, not necessarily in the right order. 

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I think that If I was to take up residence on that ship I would choose the forward cabin.

Sleep in the bow as a double berth, convert the tier berths to cupboards/shelving/wardrobe.

You have now created a master-cabin with on-suite and dressing room that is a separate private space from entertaining and guest areas.

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Hi If you're going to live on it how many visitors will you have? the Princes we had had fixed bench seats real back killers our next boat had armchairs absolutely bliss we now have recliners on our boat even more bliss bench seats are ok for short periods in summer but for long periods in winter!!! recliners every time. John

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Ahh, yes, visitors. I can foresee occasions when I may well have 7 visitors on board, and I have worked out the sleeping when that happens. Also quite often I shall have 2 or 3.

One of the reasons I intend to keep the sleeping accommodation up to these levels, and have such numbers of guests is that it will force me to a level of self discipline and stop me filling all the available area with toot!

I too have a folding chair that is very comfortable, and some of the modifications involve ensuring there is a bit of an angle to the to the backs of the bench seats. Old Nyx taught me that one.

I shall certainly do as Smoggy suggests and think long and hard about such changes. 

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2 minutes ago, CambridgeCabby said:

One question ?

where is the bar going , if you remove the wardrobe and sink from the stern cabin , then you could fit a counter , bar sink , optics and keg stack 

You are far too late with that suggestion, Timbo already made it in a phone conversation this morning!

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if you want really good plywood with lots of layers I believe airplane grade is the stuff to go for, as it is a structural grade, and if you think marine was expensive...

https://www.aircraftplywoodandtimber.co.uk/birch-plywood.html 

6mm is a 12 ply wood (also seems to be the thickest available) and comes in at £139 a sheet (incl vat) (but thats only a 50"x50" sheet).

they also do a marine grade gaboon ply in 9mm at just £98 a sheet (standard 8x4 foot), this is all aircraft grade structural plywood

thats of course if you want the stuff with lots of layers.

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Have you considered phenolic plywood or buffalo board as its sometimes branded? We use it for flooring in trailers and wagons in the transport industry. Good in the wet and road salt and wears well in high use conditions. Builders merchants usually carry stocks,if not, plenty on Tinternet thingy.

Paul

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In my experience, Ply from national builder's merchants is shite. Proper shite. Especially if you want to use the facia in a finished product, ie. Varnishing. 

Tim Collins, if he's still around, Robbins in Bristol or locally, Reed Timber in Norwich. 

There are also various boards masquerading as Buffalo board.  

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Guest Jayfire
19 hours ago, MauriceMynah said:

Ahh, yes, visitors. I can foresee occasions when I may well have 7 visitors on board

Don't go worrying about counting me in those figure's Eminem, as I know it will have been on your mind.

Once I've made use of the boatmade bar you/Timbo make I'm perfectly happy to pass out overboard, no need for a bed for me :default_drinks:

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